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COVID and Wanderlust

COVID and Wanderlust

In these strange times of self-isolation for those of us who love travel and exploring it is exceedingly difficult. I hope you and your families are staying safe and healthy and finding ways to cope in the day to day. Personally I have been savoring…

Long Weekend in Charleston, South Carolina

Long Weekend in Charleston, South Carolina

It’s been a goal of mine to explore the South since I moved back to the U.S.! The more I’ve traveled the world the more I’ve realized the U.S. is almost like a series of countries within a country. Each region let alone state is…

Book Review: Infused, Adventures in Tea

Book Review: Infused, Adventures in Tea

I am thrilled to continue my series of book reviews on travel literature! As a former English major and someone who loves to travel in every sense of the word (arm-chair travel anyone?) I have always enjoyed this genre. In these unprecedented times one of the most accessible ways to explore different cultures, cuisines, philosophies and perspectives is to read. I hope through my series you too will be inspired to travel via donning on your bookworm glasses. Maybe one of these reads will help shape your next future trip. One area of travel literature that I have been enjoying in particular is related to food (and in this case drink). I find it is through taste and the kitchen that you can truly begin to explore a culture. What we eat and drink also connects us to each other and to communities, families and generations of stories.

In recent years I have become obsessed with tea – it all started on a drizzly afternoon in Shanghai, sitting inside the historic teahouse in the Yu Gardens. We were presented with high grade oolong and longjing tea and were served the Chinese goncha way, with yixing clay teapots, glass teaware and a large, hot thermos. Learn more about my enchanting afternoon here. Having grown up with teabags and also occasionally premium green tea sent by my grandmother in Japan, I never knew there was an entirely separate ritual for tea drinking in China. Essentially, it took one experience in China to get me hooked forever. Not only are loose leaf teas more exquisite in taste but the whole ritual of steeping tea in proper tea-ware, admiring the subtle aromas, taking in the colors and shifting flavors, is meditative and such a pleasure. I was amazed to learn over time that there are so many varieties of tea out there, each unique, with a special “terroir”, like wine, that changes by year, by location, weather of a given year and tea expert. The best teas are from small farms, often run by generations of tea masters and having the right intermediary from which to purchase the tea is essential. 

Enjoying high grade Oolong and Longjing Green tea in a Shanghai teahouse! Accompanied with seasonal kumquats and olives.
Enjoying some delicious Rou Gui Oolong in our apartment in Lisbon!

Henrietta Lovell, known as the British “Tea Lady,” recently published an incredibly good book, “Infused: Adventures in Tea” and I am so excited to share it with you! Even if you are not a tea drinker by any means, this book makes for an entertaining and fascinating read. Lovell brings forth personal stories of how she got drawn to tea in the first place and relates her travels to various (sometimes remote) parts of the world sourcing her rare, delicious teas. Each chapter centers around one region of the world where tea has been grown and is woven together with Lovell’s own experiences of the tea farmers and the land in which these extraordinary teas are grown. These destinations include places like Japan, China, Sri Lanka, Nepal, South Africa and Malawi. 

Each of these chapters is like a perfectly infused cup of tea. You will delight in the different characters you meet, including the spirited Henrietta herself, and fill your imagination with the flavors of some of these special teas. Even for someone like myself who has read several books on tea and knows which type of oolongs she particularly likes, this book introduced me to some of the most unique teas. I won’t spoil it for you but there are some tea varieties I have never heard of that truly live up to the name of Lovell’s company, the Rare Tea Company. Henrietta also sources exquisite spring teas for her company as well. In general tea leaves picked in the spring months are considered to be of the highest grade. Because the buds are filled with flavor and stored sugars, in addition to being in limited quantities, they are usually high in demand.

Cuddling up to this great book on the weekend!
A delicious sampling of Japanese green teas at a tea salon in Tokyo!

For those of you who are foodies, Henrietta also talks about her experiences consulting at some of the most renown restaurants and hotels in the world! These fine establishments include Claridges, Noma, Momofuku, Blue Hill At Stone Barns, Gordon Ramsey and others. Not only does Henrietta provide guidance on the correct ways to handle and brew quality tea but also how to pair tea with food. Why shouldn’t we pair teas the way it is done with wine? I totally agree. Even among particular types of teas it is amazing what varying flavor profiles exist. Quite naturally, this subtlety makes for a great beverage to pair with food. Based on her consulting experience Henrietta also includes fun recipes for tea cocktails, ice teas and cold infusions in the book!

One of the last chapters discusses why loose-leaf tea is better than bagged tea. Not only does it taste better but there is the entire tea trade to consider. Much of the large corporations that manufacture tea have one incentive – to make sure production is as cheap as possible. As a result, what is so often found in tea bags in the supermarket are just the leftover dredges of tea leaves (essentially the lowest grade tea dust). The best tea out there has also always been hand crafted and hand picked. However, nowadays mass production has mechanized much of tea farming. Tea farmers that make traditional, handicraft tea are then forced out of the trade or face steep competition on the international market.

What I admire about Henrietta is the fact that not only is she introducing a world of exquisite teas to the Western world but also educating the public on why purchasing quality tea is good for everyone. Rare Charity is a foundation Lovell has created to help tea farming communities in the world thrive in an increasingly competitive global tea market. Every purchase of tea from the Rare Tea Company also adds proceeds to the charity itself. An additional plus, the company only sources teas from organic farms that don’t use pesticides and aims to ensure packaging is biodegradable and recyclable.

Although I have yet to try Henrietta’s teas myself, I am itching to! The unusually special teas like South African Wild Rooibos, Malawi White Antler and White Tip Jasmine are ones I would especially love to try. Once I do, i’ll leave a little review! In the meantime, if you are a tea lover like me, check out my other posts on teas and tea drinking below (more to come)!

Experience drinking tea at a legendary teahouse in Shanghai.

Peranakan High Tea at Violet Oon.

Best teahouses in Singapore.

Best things to do in Lisbon, Portugal

Best things to do in Lisbon, Portugal

Background In recent years Lisbon has become an increasingly popular tourist destination! Having lived here for over a year I can certainly affirm it is a special place. To be able to live for an extended period of time in a city means you are…

Review: Convento do Espinheiro, Évora

Review: Convento do Espinheiro, Évora

On our recent trip to Évora we had the pleasure of staying in one of the loveliest and most fascinating hotels ever, Convento do Espinheiro! As you can guess, this hotel is a former convent that was renovated into a beautiful luxury hotel and spa.…

Long Weekend in Évora

Long Weekend in Évora

Embracing local travel in these COVID times, we had the delight of visiting the historic city of Évora! If you enjoy exploring small cities chock-full of history and charm this is the place for you. Also, Alentejo is a region that should absolutely be appreciated if you wish to experience Portugal in full. The rolling farmlands, vineyards and sun-baked olive groves surrounding Évora are stunning and remind me of the Tuscan hillside. In fact the city itself is reminiscent of Tuscany’s many medieval villages! Although many guide books and travel forums recommend visiting only as a day trip two nights and three days in my opinion is the sweet spot to really enjoy this place. 

Why Évora?

Despite its small size, Évora is historically one of Portugal’s important cities and is designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. In fact, the city dates back to more than five millennia and was conquered by the Romans in 57 BC. Even today you can see the old, Roman city walls and baths in tact as well as many artifacts. For the Roman conquerors Évora was considered one of its most flourishing cities in the Iberian peninsula and was routinely referred to in texts and on coins. 

Following the era of the invasion of the Visigoths the city was conquered by the Moors in 715. The meandering streets and pathways of Évora are heavily influenced by this period and reminds me of some parts of Lisbon for that reason. In the Museum of Évora, there are several artifacts with Arabic inscriptions displayed and some beautiful prints depicting Evora in the 1500s (below). In the Middle Ages, the city was then reconquered by the Portuguese King Alfonso I when the city continued to flourish further – the first and second royal dynasties made their capital here. 

What struck me immediately as we walked into the city were the iconic yellow and white walls. Just this color combination alone makes Évora’s winding streets charming. The city and region also has a reputation for being hot with strong sunlight. The contrast of white walls against the deep blue sky is absolutely beautiful. There is an unmistakable mediterranean vibe to this place due to a slower pace of life. The surrounding, dry fields give off a simple, rustic feel to the city and the Alentejo region itself. Given the small size of Évora you could easily walk around in a day. However, there are many sights to see due to its rich history and you will want to meander through the quieter parts of town.

A delightful home between the cathedral and residential area.
Giraldo Square, the main plaza of Évora

The Main Sights

Due to the small size of the city you won’t really be able to get lost. Take advantage of that and wander around without a map or Google Maps open. There are some supremely charming streets that lead into the local, residential areas. If you are able to spend at least a night here you will be able to deeply sense the everyday rhythms of the place.

Temple of Diana

At the city center you will find a prominent square where the Roman Temple of Diana, the goddess of hunting, remains. The temple’s thirteen pillars still stand and is considered some of the best preserved Roman ruins on the Iberian peninsula. Originally built in the 1st century, it was converted into a temple by a cult led by Emperor Augustus. It is incredible to see so many of its pillars still standing today and in such pristine condition! You can almost imagine a fully functioning Roman temple as it was back in the day.

Ahead of the temple is a lovely square with a garden and view over the valley surrounding Évora. Given the temple is at the highest point of the hill the views are stunning. Enjoy the rolling hills, greenery and charming tiled rooftops that spread before your eyes below. If you fancy a drink or a bite to eat the kiosk in the square is a great option. When we visited the kiosk ourselves we noticed the servers taking precautions by spacing out the seats and sanitizing the tables and chairs after every customer.

Sé Cathedral

If you walk down the street behind the Temple of Diana, you will come across another major attraction of Évora, the Sé Cathedral. From other parts of the city you will likely see the cathedral’s steeples due to its sheer size and magnificence. What is unique about the Sé is that you are able to access the rooftops, which allow for the best views of Évora and the surrounding sun-drenched valley, small towns and the cathedral itself. You don’t want to miss this! The rooftop is also visibly sloped so it makes you feel a bit giddy.

The Sé is one of the largest and most beautiful in Portugal and is classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The Roman-Gothic style of the building makes it striking. Built around 1280-1350, it has a domed lantern tower, which can be admired from the rooftop. The ridged, fortress-like shape of the tower is typical of the Middle Ages. The Main Chapel was rebuilt in the 18th century in the Baroque style, which is elaborate and rich with colored marble, gold, and expressive carvings. The German architect, Johann Friedrich Ludwig, also designed the Convent of Mafra. The Cloister of the Sé is also absolutely stunning with a grand chapel for the founder of the cathedral. 

Fantastic views of Évora and the surrounding areas.
The cloisters from above!
Dramatic Gothic, fortress-style rooftops.

Church of St. Francis & Capela dos Ossos

Another major destination in Évora is the Capela dos Ossos, located in the beautiful Church of St. Frances, also known as Igreja e Mosteiro de São Francisco. In fact, this was the only sight where we had to wait on a long line to get into. As macabre as it is, the “Chapel of Bones” is worth seeing though it is a bit haunting. The rest of the church is also beautiful as it is so pay a visit! The Church of St. Frances was built by a Franciscan monk between the 1475 and 1550s in a Gothic style. However there are some hints of Moorish influence to be found in the structure as well. The church is known for its single nave, which ends in a splendid ribbed vaulted ceiling and is the largest of its kind in Portugal. Gil Vicente, the father of Portugal’s dramatic arts is buried here. There is also a museum inside the greater church, which is included in the ticket required to visit the Chapel of Bones. As you can imagine, much of the art is religious from various periods of time, including the middle ages. 

As for the “star of the show,” the Chapel of Bones was aptly named for its walls and pillars covered with human skulls and bones. Some legends say that these bones are from soldiers or victims of the plague. But in reality they come from the ordinary citizens of Évora when its dozens of cemeteries became overcrowded. Rather than having purely grotesque motives the monks who built this chapel believed it better to move the remains to the church rather than condemning the souls of the dead by discarding them. Also instead of hiding the bones behind doors, they thought it best to reveal them to encourage ordinary citizens to meditate on the transience of life and material goods. Since Évora at the time was a town of great wealth the monks hoped this would convince more of its citizens to be humble and relinquish their materialistic outlook on life. I would imagine the monks were extremely effective – what brings the message home more evocatively than this? The three founding Franciscan monks are also laid to rest here. 

Museu da Évora

If you are a history or art buff and are interested in learning more about the illustrious past of Évora or its culture influence you should definitely visit the Museu da Évora. You will find here Roman and Moorish artifacts, an excavation site, antiquities and paintings. I was particularly struck by the extensive oil painting collection. Apparently back in the day the most preeminent painters of the region were influenced significantly by Flemish and Italian painters and artists. The museum is a good size so take note if you are an art or history lover – put aside a few hours in a day for this. Also although not all of the descriptions are in English you can understand the general picture. The museum is located right besides the Sé, which is convenient!

The most magnificent tiles you can see in Portugal!
Remnants of the Moorish influence in Évora! Beautiful, Arabic inscriptions.

Cromeleque dos Almendres

After the Capela dos Ossos, the next most mysterious sight in Évora is the Cromeleque dos Almendres. Akin to the Stonehenge, these stones date back to prehistoric times. These egg-shaped boulders form a rough circumference around the top of a hilly area. Discovered in the 1960s, studies have confirmed that the monument was created sometime between the 6th and 4th millennia BC. Although no one really knows what purpose the Cromeleque dos Almendres had it is generally agreed that it was likely used for ceremonial purposes. Also, given it overlooks the eastern horizon and follows the movement of the Sun and Moon the Cromeleque dos Almendres was likely a sacred place where pre-historic peoples celebrated the cycle of nature. On some of the stones you can still see various designs, though many have been rubbed off over the centuries by the wind and rain.

There is a deliberateness that you sense when you wander through these stones and it makes you wonder what sorts of rituals were held here and for whom. Traditions and ceremonies continue to play large roles in our societies. It is touching to see how this was been the case for a very long time and is part of a much larger narrative.

Find Waldo Neolithic edition!

In Closing

Évora is absolutely one of the most charming cities I have had the pleasure of visiting in Portugal. It is small but filled with character and side streets that will lead you to interesting nooks and crannies of this old city. There is also a great deal to do of cultural and historical value that will leave you fascinated and in awe of its illustrious past and Portugal in general. The countryside surrounding Évora is also scenic with rolling hills, olive trees, vineyards and whitewashed farmhouses. The peacefulness here is palpable and will leave you wondering why you are always in some sort of hurry back at home. Your senses will be delighted by the strong, evocative sunlight, the earthy taste of red wine, the delicious regional cuisine and historic views. Just make sure you wear your most comfortable shoes as the cobblestones feel like they have been there since Roman times! 

For the perfect place to stay in Évora check out my post on a former convent turned in a luxury hotel and spa, Convento do Espineiro! As for more trip ideas in Portugal, check out Porto, the Algarve, Sintra and Cascais

Visiting the Algarve Post-COVID

Visiting the Algarve Post-COVID

I am thrilled to share my first travel post since the start of COVID! We decided to go on a road trip to the Algarve region in Portugal for a few days in July. Since it is summertime, it was a no brainer to plan…

Book Review: The Land Where Lemons Grow

Book Review: The Land Where Lemons Grow

What a few months it has been for everybody! My hopes are that you are staying safe indoors and are taking good care of not only your health but spirits as well. It is a trying time for those of us who love to explore…

Long Weekend in Porto

Long Weekend in Porto

Porto, Portugal’s other “grande dame” of cities, is the perfect weekend getaway from Lisbon! How does this city compare? Well, the streets are wider, grander, and architecturally influenced by the ancient Romans. Lisbon in contrast, was influenced by the Moors, with its small, winding streets.  The cuisine in Porto is also heavier, which hits you all at once as you try a francesinha (a beef sandwich layered with cheese, gravy and sausage)! Also how could we not mention this city’s claim to fame, port wine! The Douro Valley, located close to Porto, is considered a UNESCO Heritage Site. This area is officially considered one of the oldest demarcated vineyards in the world. So port tasting is a must when you visit! 

Getting there

There are a few options to get to Porto from Lisbon – flying, the train, the bus and driving. We personally decided to take the train because it is a hassle-free, direct voyage. All trains to Porto depart from Santa Apolonia Station and it takes approximately three hours to get there. FYI it is cheaper to purchase a ticket roundtrip, which is approximately  €60. The train is clean and spacious. There were some beautiful views of the countryside. Bring some snacks and a book to keep you company along the way! Since it was Valentine’s Day I was treated to a cup of heart-shaped gummies from my dear hubby.

Once you arrive in Porto Campanha station you will need to either transfer to the local train line or take a taxi to the city center. We took Uber, which runs efficiently throughout Portugal and is affordable. If your hotel or Airbnb is in the city center you should be able to walk to nearly all tourist destinations including the Ribeiro riverfront.

What to Do

What I love about Porto is the fact that there is so much to do but it is not overwhelming. You can easily enjoy all this city has to offer at a leisurely pace. That is what I call my ideal vacation! From food tours, port tastings, and museums to beautiful walks by the riverside, it is all up to you!

Igreja dos Clérigos

This beautiful church is a must see – both for the gorgeous, grand interior and for the 360 degree views from the bell tower! The architecture is quite unique, which allows you to gradually climb through the entirety of the church till you find yourself at the top of the tower. That being said, the style of the inner sanctum reminded me a great deal of churches in Tuscany due to the liberal use of colored marble/stone. Afterwards I found out the chief architect, Nicolau Nasoni was actually trained in Siena! Since we were visiting on Valentine’s Day the church offered a 2-for-1 ticket discount for couples. How sweet is that?

Compared to many of the churches and cathedrals in Lisbon this one felt more spacious and full of light. The ones in Lisbon are oftentimes full of dark wood panelling, natural, grey-toned stone and sombre. Note the stairs leading to the bell tower are narrow so you need to beware of opposing traffic on your way down or up! Is it only me or do bell towers remind you of Quasimodo and Esmerelda? The views are absolutely stunning from above. We were able to reach the top right around late afternoon when the sun was making its way down. The golden light was magnificent! You can even see all the way down to the waterfront promenade.

Waterfront & Luis I Bridge

Undoubtedly one of the classic views of Porto requires you to walk down to the waterfront. The streets become smaller, quainter and there are a multitude of cafes and places by the river to sit and enjoy the view. Across the river you’ll find the port tasting lodges. We ended up doing the river walk and port tastings on different days. But depending on how much time you have you can do everything in one day or separately. While you are near the river definitely take the time to admire the multiple bridges.

The most famous of the bridges is the Luis I, which has two levels. In fact it is the longest of its kind in the world! Take the time to cross the upper level to admire the fantastic views of Porto, a great place to take photos. Note you cannot access the top level from the riverside walk. You will need to take a side street before reaching the waterfront that leads to the upper part of the bridge. All of the lovely, arial photos you see of Porto are taken from this vantage point. If you’re due to have a port tasting this is a great time to walk across the bridge. Since all of the port lodges are across the river you will have to make it to the other side – either by foot or car.

Port Tasting

For those of you who love a nightcap or dessert liquor after dinner you will love port! Little did I know port originates from this very city until we moved to Portugal. Now I regularly tuck in a tiny glass after dinner. Admittedly this makes me feel a bit like a distinguished intellectual for some reason. Port is essentially sweet red wine that comes in a variety of types, the main distinctions being white, red and tawny. Although there are other producers of port wine in the world (e.g.- Argentina, Australia, Canada, France, India, South Africa, Spain and the US) according to EU law only those from Portugal can be deemed true “port.”

FYI there are many port lodges that offer tastings and tours. Some require advance booking. We chose to go to Taylor’s, which included a self-guided tour (including an audio guide) through the lodge where the wine is aged and stored. The entry fee also included a basic tasting of one red and white variety. Some of the lodges also offer food menus and are actually lovely places to enjoy lunch or a light dinner.

Our tour of Taylor’s cellars was impressive! There is more information than you could ever want beginning with varieties of grapes used, techniques for differentiating the different port types, background on the Douro valley and finally a company (family) historic overview. But what I really enjoyed was walking through aisles and aisles of barrels where this delicious liquor was aging. It reminded me a whole lot of visiting vineyards in Tuscany.

The tasting itself is fun and you can choose to supplement the complimentary glasses with additional tastings (even premium aged ones). I personally have a soft spot for tawny due to its rich and more complex flavor. An added bonus, the color is a jewel-toned amber color. You will undoubtedly have a great time whichever port house you choose to visit! But via word of mouth here are some of the especially highly rated ones – Graham’s Port Lodge, Ferreira, Taylor’s Port Cellar.

Coffee Break: The Majestic Cafe

After a morning and afternoon of strolling around a nice cuppa coffee is in order! Undoubtedly one of the best places to go for a memorable experience is the Majestic Cafe. Not only is it decorated with gorgeous baroque, art nouveau architecture but it has such a timeless ambiance. There is a special coffee you can try here, if you like sweet coffee drinks, called bom-bom. I’ll add it is quite sweet and is more like a dessert. But satisfying and refreshing nonetheless! The anatomy of a bom-bom consists of whipped cream and condensed milk. Interestingly, this is actually considered a Spanish-style coffee originating from Valencia.

This place reminds me so much of Paris and the Belle Epoque era. In fact, like that of Paris’ famous cafes, in the 1920s, the Majestic Cafe was a place for intellectuals and artists to gather and discuss politics, social, and philosophical topics of the day. This is where I would have probably hung out if I lived in Porto back then. Another extremely special aspect of this cafe is the fact that J.K Rowling wrote the first two chapters of the Sorcerer’s Stone here. Yes, you read that right, Rowling lived in Porto for a time! It won’t be the last time that you hear about Harry Potter references during your time here. It is clear Rowling had a love of historic places with a lot of room for the imagination.

Livraria Lello

Bookstores are one of my favorite places to go shopping! As a kid the one item I spent most of my allowance money on was books. If you are like me or have a love of Harry Potter this bookstore is a must-visit. Quite literally, this is probably the most beautiful bookstore I have ever seen. The architecture is incredibly ornate – the woodwork and stained glass remind me so much of a cathedral.

Keep in mind Lello is probably one of the most popular tourist destinations in Porto these days. So try and get here on a weekday morning. You also need to purchase a ticket in advance to get into the bookstore itself. The ticket entrance is not in the bookstore but on the side of the block. FYI you can redeem the value of your ticket if you buy a book. Keep in mind when we visited Livraria Lello it was February, typically low season. But there were so many people! I can only imagine how crowded and long the lines are in the summer. There are a few special edition classics that are created just for the bookstore – they are quite beautiful and would make nice gifts. If you are looking to buy something local they have editions of Fernando Pessoa’s works.

The staircase is undoubtedly one of the most interesting features of this bookstore. Apparently J.K Rowling was inspired to create the moving staircase at Hogwarts from these stairs. You will see along the walls of books busts of various famous literary figures as well. On the second floor there are a few old editions of rare books including an illustrated version of Winnie the Pooh!

What to Eat

I highly recommend you consider doing a food tour. There are multiple companies that offer this service because Porto is very much known to be a foodie town. This is also a wonderful opportunity to try some Northern Portuguese dishes. Here are some classic dishes you need to try!

Francesinha

Now this is the ultimate sandwich you will ever eat in a lifetime! If you are hungry and craving comfort food this is for you. But beware you may regret your decision afterwards because it will cause major food coma! Essentially a Francesinha is a sandwich that includes multiple layers – bread, ham, multiple types of sausage, roast meat, melted cheese, tomato sauce and beer. Often this is served with a side of french fries. Omph!

Roast Pork Sandwich

Although this sandwich looks deceptively simple it is exceptionally flavorful and juicy. Be prepared to have a mess on your hands! The pork is cooked for hours in a special broth and put on a toasty bun with cheese. Order a beer to go along with this gem. A cult favorite is A Casa Guedes, where lines frequently go out the door. As you sit down you may be offered some fried starters on a large tray by one of the servers (similar to croquettes). Try them! The shrimp option is delicious and codfish is classic.

Açorda de Gambas

This isn’t actually a Porto specialty but worth trying in Portugal in general. That being said, I tasted an exceptional version of this dish at Intrigo, one of the restaurants here near the waterfront. Açorda is essentially a bread stew and different variations are cooked in the colder months. The prawn version is absolutely delicious and in a country that boasts fresh seafood I highly recommend this one! Intrigo is also known for its artisanal bread, which is abundantly stuffed into this dish. The restaurant also has a beautiful view of the river and you can enjoy a meal al fresco.

Petiscos

This is also another food “item” that is not unique to Porto. Petiscos are essentially Portuguese tapas – think of various types of cheeses (goat, cow, old, young, etc.) and exquisite slices of cold cuts. Yes, Portugal excels in these industries just as much as Spain and Italy! The store owners of Comer e Chorar por Mais are more than happy to offer tastings (wine and petiscos) to visitors. You can learn a great deal about the wide variety of produce that Portugal has to offer! If you want to bring home some delicious things this is also the place to get them. If you prefer to just eat your way through petiscos for a proper sit-down meal there are plenty of restaurants and bars that have popped up throughout Porto where you can enjoy them.

Where to Stay

Considering this trip was in celebration of Valentine’s Day and my 30th birthday, I decided to treat ourselves! We stayed in the historic Infante Sagres Hotel at the heart of the city. This illustrious hotel has hosted famous guests including the Dalai Lama, Queen Beatrice of the Netherlands, Bob Dylan, Prince Edward of England and U2. The Infante Sagres was renovated relatively recently so everything about it is immaculate. Apparently the hotel was named after Prince Henry the Navigator, the renowned Portuguese adventurer who began the age of exploration. He was evidently born in Porto and also established a school of navigation!

The common areas are absolutely exquisite with antique, gilded furnishings and a grand staircase that showcases a stunning multi-story stain-glass window (photo below). Every time we walked downstairs we chose to take the stairwell just because it was so beautiful. That being said, the hotel features a vintage elevator that requires you to open a gate and has a plush leather bench to sit on! The room itself was spacious, with a desk, sitting area, and a gorgeous marble bathroom. I loved the toiletries offered as well – from a local brand, Claus Porto.

Absolutely recommend including breakfasts in your package because they were delicious! Not only are typical continental options available (e.g. croissants, pastries, coffee, tea) but hot, Portuguese food items are as well. If nothing is to your liking you can put in a personal order for items like hardboiled eggs, omelettes, pancakes and the like. The newly renovated Vogue Cafe, where the breakfasts are held, is chic with large mirrors, plush, velvet sofas, and framed pictures of fashion models.

Also a tip, if you travel in Portugal during the low season (the fall and winter months) you will benefit from smaller crowds and more affordable rates, the Infante Sagres included!

Finally, beyond the beautiful furnishings and food what clearly distinguishes a hotel from the rest is service! The staff at Infante Sagres received word it was my birthday and after breakfast brought over a generous slice of birthday cake and two glasses of champagne to our room. What a perfect way to feel pampered and toast to another decade!

End of Day

All in all it was a perfect birthday and Valentine’s Day getaway! As you can see there are tons of things to do in Porto. These are just some of the many things to enjoy. Have you been to this lovely city yet? Where are your favorite haunts? What are your favorite eats? Next time I would love to stay in the Douro valley in the warmer months or autumn when the vineyards are bursting with color and grapes! 

 

Day Trip to Cascais

Day Trip to Cascais

Olá 2020! We are back from the Christmas and New Years holidays in New York and Amsterdam. Happy 2020 everyone! May your new year be filled with adventuring and travel planning! Rob and I have decided to make it a point to explore Lisbon and…