Travel, food, literature, and the good life
You couldn’t possibly leave Shanghai without eating Xiao Long Bao (soup dumplings)! These delicacies are renowned the world over, are impossibly fun to eat and so yum! Similar to Peking Duck, you haven’t really been to Shanghai until you have tried these since this is …
One of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world, Shanghai does not disappoint! We headed to this sleek, modern city after our visit to Beijing. (check out my full post). Shanghai is easily reachable by flight, which is a mere two and a half hours …
For two nights in a row we treated ourselves to the infamously delectable Peking Duck! We managed to try this at two popular places, Da Dong Roast Duck and Siji Minfu near the Forbidden City. This was the first time I ever tried the dish, which is so special. I found it quite addictive actually and the more you have it the more it grows on you. Growing up in Queens, New York there was a Chinese restaurant in our neighborhood aptly named “Peking Duck.” Oddly enough we always ordered other things from the menu rather than the restaurant’s namesake. Imagine my joy at finally being able to try it in the city where it was created!
When you order Peking Duck in Peking, the exquisitely roasted bird is presented graciously by the chef. They will then begin slicing the choicest parts on a platter (including the melt-in-your-mouth, crispy skin) for you to enjoy. At Da Dong, the first restaurant we tried, they actually provide a serial number for each and every duck they roast! That is what you call quality control! If you wish, the waitresses/waiter can also help demonstrate how the duck is traditionally eaten. FYI, as you will be advised, you should definitely order a side of pancakes and condiments (small additional cost) to get the full experience.
The way you eat the duck is also part and parcel of why this is so delicious! The skin can be eaten on its own or dipped in white sugar. As for the duck meat, you place it inside a thin pancake, add pickles, veggies and various pastes like garlic and black bean sauce, then fold it up. The condiments spice up the dish with accents of pickle and fresh crunch! Another way is to put a bunch of sliced pickles, meat, crispy skin and paste in a crunchy, round puff. I loved alternating the above while also enjoying the meat and skin plain.
Normally I hate chicken skin and fat in meat. But something about the delicate crunch of the duck skin and the buttery layer of fat underneath makes it divine. The skin melts in your mouth! FYI one order of duck is perfect for two people. The chefs end up carving two plates worth in the end and a smaller third with drumsticks.
Our first Peking Duck experience! The ambiance is quite posh and although there are multiple locations we went to one located at the top of a mall. Since this was consistently ranked one of the top places to try peking duck I knew I wanted to try this place first. We arrived there on a Friday night without a reservation but that was fine. The menu was extensive and I hear the other dishes are also quite delicious and fancy. But we were there for the star of the show and kept it simple.
We ordered one regular-sized duck but noticed there was also an alternate option of ordering a smaller and younger duck as well. Not sure how they compare but perhaps another trip would be necessary to make a fair assessment of that *wink*. But I do remember it being slightly more expensive so perhaps the meat is more tender. On the side I also ordered a watermelon mojito, which was surprisingly made freshly squeezed and was absolutely perfect! If you like cocktails I recommend checking out the list as it is extensive. The duck was absolutely exquisite. The waiters spoke good English and were kind enough to explain to us how to eat the duck properly. They provide refills of the pancake if you run out so don’t be shy about asking.
After the meal, at both restaurants we visited, we were presented with a bowl of tiny mandarins (smaller than your palm) for dessert. Since we were there in February they were likely in season and were perfectly sweet and sour and served atop a bowl of ice. Da Dong also went the extra mile by serving a street dessert specialty, candied crabapples stuffed with sweet red bean, on a stick. My Chinese friends recommended I try this and i’m so glad I had the chance! If you love desserts that are slightly sour you will adore these. The sugar coating the fruit is crunchy and sweet, the crabapples a bit tangy and the inside soft and sweet with red bean paste. Icing on the cake. You can see how happy I was to try these! They were delightful.
We dropped by this restaurant after spending the morning at the Forbidden City and Tiananmen Square. We arrived right around lunchtime and there was a long line. The wait took in total two hours but we did not mind since they had a sitting area generously stocked with interesting Chinese snacks (e.g. chips, nuts, candies, kumquat, cucumber) and teas.
The duck was just as delicious as the one in Da Dong Roast Duck but somehow the meat was served at a warmer temperature. This small detail alone made the duck more flavorful and it just melted in your mouth. They may have had a slightly larger portion size as well. From the far corner you can see into the kitchen where they roast ducks one at a time in an oven. As in Da Dong they slice the duck table-side, which is wonderful to watch. Alongside the meal we were once again served a bowl of tiny mandarins, which were so adorable to eat.
The ambiance of the restaurant was lovely though less modern and posh looking compared to Da Dong. It felt more relaxed and there were more families seated at the tables. Many other dishes looked incredibly delicious so if you are hungry don’t be afraid to order other things off the menu! A lot of the regulars around us were ordering other dishes in addition to the duck.
All in all, I would say both restaurants were exquisite and come highly recommended. There are a number of other places that are popular but I can attest that both Da Dong and Siji Minfu are both solid choices. If you can only have one peking duck meal you can feel confident choosing one or the other. Have you had Peking Duck in Beijing or elsewhere? Happen to know of any great places in Singapore or beyond? Let me know! I would love to continue to feed my newfound addiction on a more regular basis!
What a dream come true! For the past three and a half years living in Asia the Great Wall has been in the back of my mind and on my bucket list. One of the Wonders of World, this treasure is more beautiful in person …
Arrival We checked-in to the Sandalwood Shichihachi Hotel late in the evening where the historic hutong houses are and where the upper class, literati used to live. I generally enjoy staying in quirky places with a lot of historical richness. The home was beautifully restored …
We had the challenge of creating an itinerary in Beijing for just two days before moving on to Shanghai. That being said we managed to see quite a bit and had enough time to simply enjoy. I am the type of traveler that wants to see the “must-see” sights without sacrificing time to simply contemplate, enjoy a coffee, or simply take it all in. During our stay we stayed at Sandalwood Shichahai Hotel, a historic hutong or traditional mansion. To our surprise, there are central areas in Beijing with districts full of these traditional homes complete with courtyards where you can stay comfortably! For visiting this ancient city I completely recommend you give a hutong stay a try.
We woke up super early (7 AM) for our day tour at one of the sections that are open to tourists. Thanks to a friend’s recommendation we chose to go to Mutianyu vs. Badaling, which is most popular and very touristy! There are many other options including Jinshanling and Jiankou, which are more remote and further out from Beijing. There are plenty of tour group options depending on what you’d like including multi-day hiking tours, etc. But we chose a simple day-long tour with round-trip bus transfers. We found this Klook tour to be most cost effective (not sponsored). This tour lasted between 7 AM – 4 PM, which seems pretty standard. If you choose to do a private tour (which is much more expensive) you can add other sights as well including the Ming Tombs or the Summer Palace.
The Wall itself was inexplicably impressive and looks just as beautiful as I had expected it would. But like all of the wonders of the world I have seen yet, like the Taj Mahal, it is like a mirage of perfection and seems unreal. Every angle, tower, and outlook you gaze from is stunning. For amateur photographers this is a dream. A friend had told me that it only snows once or twice a year in Beijing at most so we were very lucky to be able to witness a snowy Great Wall. The sky was a searing blue and just a day after fresh snow had fallen.
Check out my full post for more details on our snowy day in Mutianyu!
We visited Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City first thing on the second day of our trip. These two sites should be seen together as they are right by each other. In fact, Tiananmen Square leads you directly to the entrance of the Forbidden City (the only one), which is the Southern Gate. There are two other main site in Tiananmen Square including the Great Hall of the People and Mao Zhe Dong Memorial Hall. But considering our time constraints we decided to move straight ahead to the Forbidden City.
Note that the security is high in this area. To enter Tiananmen Square you will have to go through a security check. Be sure to bring your passports as a form of identification. While Chinese tourists will show their national identity cards you can show the passport. Also, in order to purchase your ticket for the Forbidden City itself you need to provide passports. Note that although Chinese citizens must purchase tickets to the Forbidden City online ahead of time, foreigners can simply purchase them the day of. They shouldn’t sell out as most of the tourists are not foreigners.
The Forbidden City is incredibly impressive and having been to Korea, Seoul’s Gyeongbokgung palace comes to mind. I am reminded of the fact that Korea and Japan used to be tributary states way back when and culture influences flowed openly between these countries. The grandness of space felt in the courtyards as well as the various halls where the Emperor held important meetings is still palpable today. While the Emperor was allowed to enter the main Southern gates, the Empress, imperial consorts, and concubines were made to enter through the Northern gates, which is the back “exit” today. It is quite interesting to notice how the women’s quarters also located towards the back feels like a maze, with its cluster of smaller courtyards and rooms.
After returning from my trip, I was inspired to read an interesting but controversial book on Cixi, the last Empress Dowager of China. If you are into biographies I completely recommend this book. Take it with a grain of salt as apparently most people in China today portray Cixi as a negative figure in history. Perhaps the truth lies somewhere in between. Also, prior to visiting the Forbidden City I had rewatched The Last Emperor, a childhood favorite with fresh eyes. It has some stunning shots of the palace grounds and gives an interesting context into the political struggles at the time of the last dynasty including the Japanese occupation.
Afterwards we located a great Peking Duck restaurant nearby, Siji Minfu. Although it was not directly next to the Forbidden City if you have access to Google Maps (VPN anyone?!) its quite straight forward to get there. Although we had Peking Duck for dinner the night before we wanted to have another taste before we left for Shanghai in the evening. Also since it was my birthday I thought I deserved a real treat! For more in-depth information on where to try Peking Duck, including Siji Minfu, in Beijing check out my full post.
We had planned initially to then see the Temple of Heaven, which is an important historical landmark in Beijing. It is where the former Emperors used to pray for a bountiful harvest year to year. In the morning it is supposed to be particularly lovely with lots of locals biding their time, doing various activities an exercises. If you appreciate people watching this is a must-see. However, considering the long lunch wait and our early evening flight to Shanghai we decided to head back to the hotel.
Although two days is not nearly enough for Beijing we had an incredible time! As I always tell myself, not seeing everything simply means there is an excuse to come back a second time! Fully intend on doing so in the coming years and explore even more of China. What are some of your favorite sites in Beijing? To check out our three-day itinerary for Shanghai check out my post!