36 Hours in Naples
Background
Napoli, the magnificent city of southern Italy lies sprawling in the sun, like a great golden lion napping next to an azure bay. It is easy to feel the complex, layered quality of this city, all of its history built one on top of the other. Some might say this historic city, which used to be a powerful behemoth in its day, is no longer in its prime – the streets are slightly gritty, chaotic, and there is a darkness. But don’t let this put you off because this is precisely what makes Naples so fascinating and unique. There is so much grandeur in the architecture and the people are warm and lively. The food is fried and spicy and this is where the pizza was born! There are many parts of greater Europe that are polished and perfect but then there are cities like Naples that exude something real, a feeling that you are not just a tourist but that you are stepping into a place with a living pulse.
Napoli is considered to be one of the oldest cities in Europe and was first founded by the Greeks in the first millennium BC and from 661-1139 was the capital of the Duchy of Naples, which was a very powerful kingdom in Italy, and not to mention Europe, at the time. It also played an important role in terms of transmitting Greek culture to Roman society and later on was conquered by the Byzantine Empire. There are a number of churches dotted throughout the city, which reflect the complex shifting of culture and power. In 1734, under the Bourbons, Naples became consequential in its prestige along with Paris and London. Being one of the major European capitals over the ages, Naples emerged also as a hub for art, culture, and architecture. A number of palaces and churches were built here by nobility, given the city was viewed as the capitol of the arts and till today, you can enjoy these gorgeous spaces. Given the historic significance of Naples, the historic center is a UNESCO Heritage Site.
Here I’ll be sharing some highlights from Naples that we particularly enjoyed within 3-4 days and this includes day trips from the city to Pompeii and the city of Capri, right off the Bay of Naples. This makes for a varied trip, which includes some history, culture, sun, and sea. We often prefer to spend as many nights as possible in one hotel instead of having to be on the go from place to place. If you decide to also do the above, I recommend you allow Naples to be home base. Another alternative, which would have been lovely as well (if you have more time and don’t mind checking in and out of hotels), is spending a night or two in Capri. The thing about Naples is that there are so many things to see and so little time! But here are some highlights that I absolutely enjoyed and recommend.
Things to Do in Naples
Wander the Streets of the Historic City Center
For a city as unique as Napoli that is imbued with so much character, I recommend carving out some portion of your days just wandering the streets. You’ll be able to notice a number of details that are unique and reveal something special. For one, I noticed in the narrow streets you have many shrines to the madonna, some cool street art, and gorgeous, grand architecture. We also didn’t necessarily make a bees eye for specific restaurants but meandered around and found trattorias that were humming with hungry customers and those with seats out on the cobblestoned streets so we could enjoy the view! Also, don’t forget to try the original Neopolitan pizza, with a thick crust and generous toppings with endless variety! Just try and walk outside of the main touristy streets and choose a pizzeria that Italians are enjoying at.
Chiostro Maiolicatro
This is a gorgeous church that you must check out for its beautiful cloisters on whose walls are painted some of the loveliest frescos I’ve ever seen. There is also a garden in the middle where you can see some detailed, colorful ceramic tiles that decorate a long line of pillars, which is quite unusual. The details were quite interesting with precise depictions of boats, country life, and a cornucopia of fruits. At the time, there were also doing some archaeological excavations under the church – not surprising given how old and layered Naples is! This is a great example of only one of many examples of churches patronized by the wealthy and influential families back in the day. If you love frescoes or elaborate tiles, this is the place for you!
Duomo Di Napoli
Another magnificent church to visit! This one is the official Duomo of Naples. This is probably one of the oldest buildings in the city as the foundation of the basilica was built by Emperor Constantine the Great and was likely built on top of an ancient temple to Apollo. The current church that you see today was built in the 13th century. Especially when I’m in Europe I absolutely love visiting the churches and cathedrals wherever I am. The architectural details are always slightly different and can tell you a little something about a culture’s aesthetic taste. A note to ladies that in order to enter you need to be “properly dressed” so make sure you cover any exposed shoulders or short skirts otherwise you may be turned away.
Royal Palace of Naples
In addition to seeing several of the magnificent churches of Naples you must also admire the palaces. This will give you a keen understanding of just how much power and wealth was concentrated in this city back in the day. The grandeur of the Royal Palace of Naples is palpable from the moment you step into the grand entryway and the dramatic stairs and marvelously carved marble in all kinds of hues. The scale and size of this place is enormous. The construction of the palace began in 1600 under a Spanish Viceroy though much of its restoration occurred under the rule of Ferdinand II. The architect who worked on building the palace was one of the most famous at the time and had built some magnificent commissions in Rome.
During the time of King Charles’ rule when he came to Naples in 1734, the palace was in a state of disarray and was not sufficiently in a position to house the court. But over time it was revived and improved upon and the palace was entirely restored during the reign of Ferdinand II. This included “modernizing” the palace to include gas lighting, hydraulic systems, drainage and sewers, and other novel updates. It’s really the marble sculptures, tapestries, and frescoes that make this palace incredibly impressive.
Teatro San Carlo
If you love culture, music, and a unique experience, I highly recommend checking to see whether there are any operas showing at the Teatro San Carlo in central Naples. We were extremely lucky to be in town during opera season and La Traviata was being performed. Teatro San Carlo is one of the oldest opera houses in Italy and is one of those quintessential theaters with red, velvet seats, beautiful boxed seats that curve around the stage and are from floor to ceiling. They also provided spontaneous translation of the Italian being sung so we could follow the storyline pretty effortlessly and made for a richer experience. But what an evening of opera listening to the art form the way it originally was performed in the country where it was born! During the intermissions it was obvious that most of the audience were Italian and almost everyone took the break to imbibe an aperativo or languidly smoke a cigarette outside in the garden. Everyone looked so fabulous and chic, I felt so underdressed! But it actually felt like a very local, non-touristy experience and wow the music!
Where to Stay
Given the historic nature of this city, I highly recommend staying in the old heart of the Naples. The streets and architecture are unique and beautiful. Whenever I’m in Europe (and anywhere really where it makes sense) I try and stay in a historic hotel. That is why I chose Decumani Hotel De Charme, as it used to be an old palazzo back in the day and has retained its beauty and spacious rooms. The breakfasts were also both delicious and generous, not just your average continental breakfast. But you could enjoy both sweet and savory breakfast items that ranged from what is typical in American breakfasts (e.g.- eggs, toast, yoghurt, cereals) to local Neapolitan specialties. During the day, you can also pop into the dining room to order an aperativo – one hot afternoon after we took a long walk outside I sat on a couch and ordered a refreshingly cool glass of prosecco, which was served with a side of savory biscuits. If you are looking for a classy stay in a historic hotel that will give you a bit of peace and a break from the Neapolitan heat, Decumani Hotel De Charme is the place for you! The major historic sites are also very walkable from the hotel and you are at the center of Napoli’s beating heart.
Quick Tip: Where to Catch a Bite
Because we are talking about Napoli here, you’ll be able to read about plenty of places to devour a classic Neapolitan pizza. There are literally hundreds of options you can choose from and a handful are notoriously renowned. Do give it a try but I want to share a tip for an exceptional place that is a bit of a hidden gem! If you are looking for a solid lunch spot for sandwiches/paninis, make sure you try Salumeria Upnea. Without fail, we came by for lunch everyday for the most delicious variety of cold cuts on fresh bread! If you plan to take a day trip to Pompeii, stop by here and grab a panini to go for your knapsack (this is just what we did and boy were we glad)! The below panini (I believe) had aged pecorino with proscuitto and bresola on a delicious bread with chopped walnuts inside…
What Next?
All in all, Naples is a wonderfully unique city to visit in Southern Italy. The chaos, riot of colors, food, and gorgeous, historic architecture are worth seeing. You will quickly come to understand what Italians mean when they say Italy is a diverse country. In fact, the first time I visited Napoli for the first time when I studied abroad in college, I was taken aback by just how foreign the city felt compared to central Italy. Even the Italian language sounded different! Now, if you have some additional days to spare, I recommend taking day trips to Pompeii and the beautiful island of Capri! They make for perfect excursions from Naples via train or ferry and are fairly easy to get to in a day – a perfect balance of sun, sea and history. Keep your eyes out for my posts on these soon.