Travel, food, literature, and the good life
It’s been a goal of mine to explore the South since I moved back to the U.S.! The more I’ve traveled the world the more I’ve realized the U.S. is almost like a series of countries within a country. Each region let alone state is…
I am thrilled to continue my series of book reviews on travel literature! As a former English major and someone who loves to travel in every sense of the word (arm-chair travel anyone?) I have always enjoyed this genre. In these unprecedented times one of…
In recent years Lisbon has become an increasingly popular tourist destination! Having lived here for over a year I can certainly affirm it is a special place. To be able to live for an extended period of time in a city means you are able to see a side that many cannot see and get to feel its pulse. It is such a privilege to be based in sunny Lisbon, a historic city with seven hills, charming cobblestoned streets, colorful homes and tiles, exceedingly delicious food and a fascinating history.
Some might wonder why my first post on Portugal hasn’t been about Lisbon, the city where we live. But honestly, I wanted to take some time to ease my way into understanding this place. There is still more I can learn and look forward to doing so. But here is a glimpse so far into what makes Lisbon such a wonderful place and what you absolutely need to do when you are here! I may be adding more onto this page over time so keep your peepers open.
Now before I get into the specifics of places to visit and things to do in Lisbon, I think it is essential to give you a brief history into this city. The city of Lisbon has a long illustrious history of great importance in Europe and globally. Particularly during the golden era of navigation Lisbon was built upon the successes of the country’s conquests. If you walk around this city today there are glimpses of just how affluent and central Portugal was at the height of the 1400s. Enter virtually any church or cathedral here and you will be stunned by the ornate, sumptuous beauty.
Even before the Golden Age of Navigation Portugal has a long history of war and conquest with the Moors of North Africa and the Spanish. Moorish influence in particular can be seen architecturally across the country. The famous São João Castle in Lisbon and the surrounding Alfama streets are heavily influenced by the Moors. You can see the how the narrow, meandering, maze-like streets are a bit different from some other parts of Lisbon, which are grid-like and almost Parisian.
However on November 1st 1755 there was a devastating earthquake that is still referred to today for its sheer magnitude. Many historic accounts of the city are categorized into events that happened either before or after the earthquake because of its devastating impact. The total death toll from this natural disaster was between 10,000 – 30,000 people, making it one of the deadliest in history. According to records the earthquake itself lasted between three and six minutes and only 40 minutes later a tsunami hit the city. Also given it was a national holiday, All Saints Day, candles were lit all over churches and homes and ultimately caused an enormous fire that engulfed the city at the aftermath of the earthquake.
Although Lisbon was the epicenter of the disaster the Algarve and other outlying island including Madeira were hit by the tsunami. Tremors were felt throughout Europe and even North Africa. Based on historic records, the massive waves caused by the natural disaster may have even reached the shores of Brazil, then a Portuguese colony. As you can imagine, this means the city of Lisbon had to be rebuilt entirely. However, there were some structures that were left in tact including the brilliant Mosteiro dos Jerónimos monastery in Bélem.
Apparently the front wall of the apartment building we are currently living in survived the earthquake. But everything else was destroyed. The reigning king at the time was so shaken by the disaster that he moved to the outlaying palace in Bélem. If you would like to take a further deep dive please check out Queen of the Sea: A History of Lisbon, a brilliant book by Barry Halton.
Further without do, here are the top neighborhoods you will want to explore in order to get a great grasp on Lisbon! FYI, should you want to learn more about each neighborhood, keep your eyes peeled as i’ll be writing more in-depth about some of the areas in future posts.
Alfama is the place you want to visit first, it being the oldest area in Lisbon and of great charm. You will be able to understand how the Moors managed to leave their influence on this city. The streets are like mazes and the cobblestones are massive and uneven. So make sure you wear your most comfortable shoes! São João castle is located at the very top of Alfama and this is where you will get the most glorious views! My suggestion is that you visit the castle first and from there meander your way down. Trust your feet and you will eventually find yourself back to central Lisbon.
To get to São João castle you will need to either take the Tram 28 or walk. If you have not yet tried the iconic tram, take it! Also a heads up the main street that eventually leads up the hill takes you through some of the most iconic and beautiful areas of Lisbon. So even if your destination is not the castle you can hop aboard and enjoy an inexpensive visual tour of the city – a great way to get your bearings! Nowadays, being fellow Lisboetas ourselves, my husband and I tend to just walk up the hill. Trust me, you get used to the climbing after a while!
When walking around Alfama, you will notice residents are mostly locals and older Lisboetas. That is what I love about this neighborhood. Sure, you will pass by quite a few kitschy souvenir shops but once you walk further into the residential areas it will feel very local. Aside from São João castle you will want to check out a few key miradouros or viewpoints. Since Lisbon has seven (steep) hills the views from up top are naturally incredible. The miradouros I recommend seeing in Alfama are Miradouro das Portas Do Sol, Miradouro de Santa Luzia and Miradouro da Graça. Another site worth seeing is the Sé de Lisboa, which looms into view as the cable car begins the climb up the hillside. You can choose to see it either at the beginning or end of your walk in Alfama.
Belém is technically a part of Lisbon but is more like the next town over. It is absolutely worth your time as there are multiple important tourist sites you should not miss! Bélem itself is a charming small town and is rather quiet in the evening and the off-season when tourists are not flocking to Lisbon. Being along the Tagus river, there is also a lovely promenade by the waterfront where you can rent bikes, scooters or just stroll around. There are quite a few cafés as well if it is a sunny day out and you just want to enjoy the views.
The Ponte 25 Avril bridge, almost an exact replica of the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco, and a Cristo Rei replica can be viewed from the waterfront. Neighboring Alcântara is located right by the base of the Ponte 25 Avril and is also an extremely hip place to enjoy an afternoon or evening, with choice restaurants and nightlife (read more below). The main sights include the UNESCO Heritage designated Jerónimos Monastery, Tower of Bélem, Padrão dos Descobrimentos and Pastéis de Belém (one of the best places to try the infamous custard pastry, pastéis). You should be able to see (and in the case of the last option “taste”) all of these sights in half a day or a leisurely full day. If you have more time to spare, check out one or two of the museums located in Bélem from the National Coach Museum, to the Berardo Collection, which houses a great modern art collection.
Whenever I visit a historic city I also appreciate getting a taste of the more lively neighborhoods where local young people hang out! Alcântara fits the bill perfectly. Lisbon in recent times has been designated one of the up-and-coming startup capitals of the world! As a result, this area of warehouses and lofts was transformed into a hip area called Lx Factory where you can find artsy boutiques, cafes and co-working places. The restaurant scene is also quite lively! On Sundays there is an arts and crafts fair that takes place where you can buy all sorts of funky stuff from prints, leather goods, jewelry to local jam and Portuguese cheeses. You can easily swing by Alcântara either before or after your visit to Bélem. It’s not huge and would be the perfect pit stop for brunch, lunch or dinner!
This is one of the main boulevards that runs through the heart of central Lisbon! It is also extremely beautiful and the most elegant street in the city. Now if you can imagine New York’s Fifth Avenue this would be the equivalent, with nearly all of the luxury goods stores lined up on this leafy, tree-lined street. However, it is far more peaceful and is just a pleasant place to take a walk. Avenida da Liberdade almost reminds me of a Parisian boulevard, having wide sidewalks and such a refined feel. The cobblestones on the sidewalks are also intricately decorated with swirly patterns.
The avenue also links together other major points of the city. At its highest point is Marques de Pombal, an impressive roundabout with a monument at its center commemorating one of the great leaders of Portuguese history who helped to rebuild Lisbon and the economy after the devastating earthquake in 1755. There is a lovely park further above the roundabout, Parque Eduardo VII, which is a long rectangular area of grass and a french-style garden with well curated hedges. From the top of the park you can enjoy a spectacular view of Lisbon, which draws the eye straight down Avenida da Liberdade to the Tagus River.
This area is perhaps the liveliest in Lisbon and tends to be busy with tourists. But I promise you it’s so pretty that you won’t mind! Most of the hotels and shopping are also based here. Also, you will probably appreciate not having to climb uphill quite as much as it is flat and located near the waterfront. “Baixa” in Portuguese means low in English. Go figure!
In this district there are also a few historic sites you do not want to miss including Convento do Carmo, which survived the earthquake and has magnificent arches exposed to the sky, Elevador da Santa Justa, one of the first elevators ever built in the world with a stunning view, and Praça do Comércio, a grand plaza with stately buildings and a historical monument that overlooks the Tagus River.
This neighborhood is my absolute favorite. Not because there are a ton of historic sites to see but because of its great charm and this is our home turf! The name Príncipe Real translates literally to “Royal Prince” in honor of Queen Maria II’s first born son. This is the perfect place to visit if you have extra time to spare and want to enjoy a leisurely day out in a hip neighborhood shopping, enjoying beautiful views and having a delicious meal. The main street, Rua Dom Pedro V, is filled with trendy boutiques that are perfect places to get unique souvenirs and handicrafts.
Make sure you do not miss Embaxiada, a stunning 19th century palace that has been converted into a trendy shopping “mall.” Everything inside is made in Portugal so you can feel good about supporting small businesses! You can find anything from shops selling leather shoes, bathing suits, organic skincare, home goods, clothing to jewelry. At the heart of the building is also Gin Lovers, a fun cocktail bar and eatery that specializes in, you guessed it, gin!
Other places to check out are the Miradouro de São Pedro de Alcântara, which I would argue has one of the most stunning views of Lisbon and Jardim do Príncipe Real, the whimsical local park that hosts an organic farmers’ market every Saturday morning from 9am-2pm. More generally, make sure you walk all the way down the entire street to Rato to enjoy the lovely neighborhood!
Lisbon is one of the most charming cities of Europe and you do not want to miss it! What I love about living here is the fact that there is beauty everywhere. Although you will find walking up these steep hills tiresome at times, there is always the promise of a stunning view at the end! As you can see, you can have your fill of history in this city and also spend ample time wandering around and getting lost (in the best way possible). There are numerous small streets that lead to unexpected places that will delight you with its charms. Just wear comfortable shoes!
As mentioned earlier, keep your eyes peeled for more in-depth posts on some of these neighborhoods soon!
If you haven’t already, check out my posts on other great places in Portugal including Sintra, Cascais, Porto, Évora, and the Algarve!
On our recent trip to Évora we had the pleasure of staying in one of the loveliest and most fascinating hotels ever, Convento do Espinheiro! As you can guess, this hotel is a former convent that was renovated into a beautiful luxury hotel and spa.…
Embracing local travel in these COVID times, we had the delight of visiting the historic city of Évora! If you enjoy exploring small cities chock-full of history and charm this is the place for you. Also, Alentejo is a region that should absolutely be appreciated…
In these strange times of self-isolation for those of us who love travel and exploring it is exceedingly difficult. I hope you and your families are staying safe and healthy and finding ways to cope in the day to day. Personally I have been savoring little things – from enjoying a delicious cup of tea to noticing the birds singing outside our kitchen window. Although it is virtually impossible for many of us to venture beyond our neighborhoods and supermarkets at the moment, I urge you to find other ways to explore and “travel.” Bring the world to your home!
Some interesting ways to do this are:
Since forever I have delighted in discovering talented travel writers. Some of my favorites include Frances Mayes, Orhan Pamuk, Pico Ayer and Cheryl Strayed. Not only is reading (all genres) a magical way to transport yourself into a different place and time but it makes you feel expansive. Think of this time as an opportunity to get to know all the places where you would like to travel more deeply. In general, I have always found that doing some background reading, whether it be on history, works of local literary writers, or straight-up checking out my Lonely Planet, always makes for a richer experience when on the road. Maybe you will discover new (and unexpected) places to add to your bucket list?
If you can this is also a perfect opportunity to support local bookstores. Consider researching your nearest bookstore rather than ordering from Amazon. Small businesses are hit particularly hard in this time and many are “open” online and deliver.
FYI I will be posting book reviews of some of my favorite travel literature in the coming weeks. Check out the Literature tab!
My husband and I love cooking and with less of an incentive these days to eat out we have been getting quite creative with what we eat. Instead of making the easiest meal we could scrap up we are trying new recipes. Why not travel through your kitchen? What I love about travel is that you are constantly immersed in something new and surprising. I’ve realized these past few weeks of trying to cook different cuisines is that you can so easily recreate this delight of discovery by exploring new ingredients and cooking techniques.
If you are new to cooking don’t despair! Start with looking up simple recipes of cuisines you naturally love and miss. For instance, something simple but delicious I have made recently is Korean egg fried rice. I’ve also noticed that the more frequently I cook the easier it is! So build it up! The neat thing is that over time you will naturally accumulate basic ingredients, spices and condiments that can be reused over and over again as you explore a cuisine. We now have quite an extensive spice rack (much of it used for Indian and Indonesian dishes)!
This is also a great opportunity to support your local ethnic supermarkets. Chinatowns and Asian supermarkets all over the world are experiencing a huge downturn of business in fear of COVID. Shop at these businesses from time to time rather than your major supermarket chain. You’ll probably find that you can purchase the same ingredients from these stores, with smaller crowds and find things that maybe sold out in other places!
I also will be putting up new content about cooking your way across cuisines in the next few weeks. Keep your eyes peeled and check out some of my posts on the various cooking classes i’ve enjoyed over the years in Chiangmai, Bali, Hanoi and more.
Local, small businesses are facing a significant amount of strain at the moment but many offer one-of-a-kind products. There are plenty of local businesses around the world that can deliver beautiful goods to your door that carry with them an essence of a place. Here are some of my personal favorite small businesses from all of my travels (not sponsored and attest to purchasing and loving their products).
FYI, due to COVID shipping times may be delayed or held up in customs depending on where you are based. So be sure to check in advance!
Piyama – although they are an Australian company they produce beautiful cotton robes and pajamas from Bali. Perfect for the summer. I actually purchased matching robes for my bridesmaids from here!
Lilla Lane – bohemian shoes and leather goods designer. I’ve purchased multiple pairs of shoes from them and they are absolutely comfortable and very stylish.
The LAB Fragrances – as someone who tends to be rather picky with scents (not usually wearing perfume) it takes a bit to impress me. This Singapore-based company produces fresh scents that are surprising but absolutely wearable on a daily basis!
Sifr Aromatics – a Singapore legend in terms of perfumes. The first place where i’ve ever purchased perfume for myself. Scents are unique and layered. The owners are extremely knowledgable and if you are not sure what you are looking for they can help. In their stores they also create a unique blend for you based on consultation.
Yixing Xuan Teahouse – my favorite tea shop in Singapore that carries lovely teas from China, Taiwan and Japan. If you really want to learn more about the fascinating world of tea and enjoy expert insights you want to purchase your teas here (they also have beautiful teaware). The shop keepers are more than delighted to answer any questions you have about teas and where they source them from. They also deliver internationally and subsidize shipping.
Postcard Teas – by now you can see I am tea obsessed and for good reason! Postcard Teas in London works with only the most reputable small tea producers around the world. They really provide detailed knowledge about their teas and the few i’ve tasted are phenomenal. It also helps that the packaging is beautiful with antique postcard prints on front.
Companhia Portugueza do Chá – another wonderful tea shop in Lisbon. They carry some very interesting teas from Georgia and Nepal as well. If you purchase in larger batches the teas come in gorgeous, colorful, vintage caddies. Free shipping in Portugal and in Europe (for all orders above €45).
Sapataria do Carmo – this shoe store is the oldest in Lisbon and has existed since 1904. If you are looking for a great quality leather shoe that will last many years this is the place to look. Normally in other parts of the world (e.g. Italy) you would have to pay a premium for this kind of quality. The designs are also range from classic to fresh and interesting. Craftsmanship is immaculate.
JAK Shoes – if you are looking for a more casual, hip pair of everyday shoes this is the place. They carry beautifully crafted leather shoes that are perfect for walking in. The insides are plush and quite padded so even in hilly places like Lisbon you could be comfortable all day! Shoes come in beautiful, neutral colors.
Retrosaria Rosa Pomar – a fantastic shop for those who love to knit or sew! All of their yarns are 100% wool and produced from Portuguese sheep. There are so many varieties and colors to choose from. If you are looking to make reusable masks they also sell everything you need (e.g. cotton cloth, elastics and thread). Rosa, the owner is incredibly helpful with advice if you are a beginner and unsure of what to purchase for a project.
Claus Porto – luxury soap, skincare and perfume company. Their soaps on a rope are fun and the scents are truly classic. My favorite is their Banho collection which comes in a citrus verbena fragrance.
Africology – skincare and spa products from South Africa. All natural ingredients. Their scents are incredible and the range of options available from oils to perfumes are great. I personally love their body balms and Oud cologne for men.
I am thrilled to share my first travel post since the start of COVID! We decided to go on a road trip to the Algarve region in Portugal for a few days in July. Since it is summertime, it was a no brainer to plan…
What a few months it has been for everybody! My hopes are that you are staying safe indoors and are taking good care of not only your health but spirits as well. It is a trying time for those of us who love to explore…
Porto, Portugal’s other “grande dame” of cities, is the perfect weekend getaway from Lisbon! How does this city compare? Well, the streets are wider, grander, and architecturally influenced by the ancient Romans. Lisbon in contrast, was influenced by the Moors, with its small, winding streets. The cuisine in Porto is also heavier, which hits you all at once as you try a francesinha (a beef sandwich layered with cheese, gravy and sausage)! Also how could we not mention this city’s claim to fame, port wine! The Douro Valley, located close to Porto, is considered a UNESCO Heritage Site. This area is officially considered one of the oldest demarcated vineyards in the world. So port tasting is a must when you visit!
There are a few options to get to Porto from Lisbon – flying, the train, the bus and driving. We personally decided to take the train because it is a hassle-free, direct voyage. All trains to Porto depart from Santa Apolonia Station and it takes approximately three hours to get there. FYI it is cheaper to purchase a ticket roundtrip, which is approximately €60. The train is clean and spacious. There were some beautiful views of the countryside. Bring some snacks and a book to keep you company along the way! Since it was Valentine’s Day I was treated to a cup of heart-shaped gummies from my dear hubby.
Once you arrive in Porto Campanha station you will need to either transfer to the local train line or take a taxi to the city center. We took Uber, which runs efficiently throughout Portugal and is affordable. If your hotel or Airbnb is in the city center you should be able to walk to nearly all tourist destinations including the Ribeiro riverfront.
What I love about Porto is the fact that there is so much to do but it is not overwhelming. You can easily enjoy all this city has to offer at a leisurely pace. That is what I call my ideal vacation! From food tours, port tastings, and museums to beautiful walks by the riverside, it is all up to you!
This beautiful church is a must see – both for the gorgeous, grand interior and for the 360 degree views from the bell tower! The architecture is quite unique, which allows you to gradually climb through the entirety of the church till you find yourself at the top of the tower. That being said, the style of the inner sanctum reminded me a great deal of churches in Tuscany due to the liberal use of colored marble/stone. Afterwards I found out the chief architect, Nicolau Nasoni was actually trained in Siena! Since we were visiting on Valentine’s Day the church offered a 2-for-1 ticket discount for couples. How sweet is that?
Compared to many of the churches and cathedrals in Lisbon this one felt more spacious and full of light. The ones in Lisbon are oftentimes full of dark wood panelling, natural, grey-toned stone and sombre. Note the stairs leading to the bell tower are narrow so you need to beware of opposing traffic on your way down or up! Is it only me or do bell towers remind you of Quasimodo and Esmerelda? The views are absolutely stunning from above. We were able to reach the top right around late afternoon when the sun was making its way down. The golden light was magnificent! You can even see all the way down to the waterfront promenade.
Undoubtedly one of the classic views of Porto requires you to walk down to the waterfront. The streets become smaller, quainter and there are a multitude of cafes and places by the river to sit and enjoy the view. Across the river you’ll find the port tasting lodges. We ended up doing the river walk and port tastings on different days. But depending on how much time you have you can do everything in one day or separately. While you are near the river definitely take the time to admire the multiple bridges.
The most famous of the bridges is the Luis I, which has two levels. In fact it is the longest of its kind in the world! Take the time to cross the upper level to admire the fantastic views of Porto, a great place to take photos. Note you cannot access the top level from the riverside walk. You will need to take a side street before reaching the waterfront that leads to the upper part of the bridge. All of the lovely, arial photos you see of Porto are taken from this vantage point. If you’re due to have a port tasting this is a great time to walk across the bridge. Since all of the port lodges are across the river you will have to make it to the other side – either by foot or car.
For those of you who love a nightcap or dessert liquor after dinner you will love port! Little did I know port originates from this very city until we moved to Portugal. Now I regularly tuck in a tiny glass after dinner. Admittedly this makes me feel a bit like a distinguished intellectual for some reason. Port is essentially sweet red wine that comes in a variety of types, the main distinctions being white, red and tawny. Although there are other producers of port wine in the world (e.g.- Argentina, Australia, Canada, France, India, South Africa, Spain and the US) according to EU law only those from Portugal can be deemed true “port.”
FYI there are many port lodges that offer tastings and tours. Some require advance booking. We chose to go to Taylor’s, which included a self-guided tour (including an audio guide) through the lodge where the wine is aged and stored. The entry fee also included a basic tasting of one red and white variety. Some of the lodges also offer food menus and are actually lovely places to enjoy lunch or a light dinner.
Our tour of Taylor’s cellars was impressive! There is more information than you could ever want beginning with varieties of grapes used, techniques for differentiating the different port types, background on the Douro valley and finally a company (family) historic overview. But what I really enjoyed was walking through aisles and aisles of barrels where this delicious liquor was aging. It reminded me a whole lot of visiting vineyards in Tuscany.
The tasting itself is fun and you can choose to supplement the complimentary glasses with additional tastings (even premium aged ones). I personally have a soft spot for tawny due to its rich and more complex flavor. An added bonus, the color is a jewel-toned amber color. You will undoubtedly have a great time whichever port house you choose to visit! But via word of mouth here are some of the especially highly rated ones – Graham’s Port Lodge, Ferreira, Taylor’s Port Cellar.
After a morning and afternoon of strolling around a nice cuppa coffee is in order! Undoubtedly one of the best places to go for a memorable experience is the Majestic Cafe. Not only is it decorated with gorgeous baroque, art nouveau architecture but it has such a timeless ambiance. There is a special coffee you can try here, if you like sweet coffee drinks, called bom-bom. I’ll add it is quite sweet and is more like a dessert. But satisfying and refreshing nonetheless! The anatomy of a bom-bom consists of whipped cream and condensed milk. Interestingly, this is actually considered a Spanish-style coffee originating from Valencia.
This place reminds me so much of Paris and the Belle Epoque era. In fact, like that of Paris’ famous cafes, in the 1920s, the Majestic Cafe was a place for intellectuals and artists to gather and discuss politics, social, and philosophical topics of the day. This is where I would have probably hung out if I lived in Porto back then. Another extremely special aspect of this cafe is the fact that J.K Rowling wrote the first two chapters of the Sorcerer’s Stone here. Yes, you read that right, Rowling lived in Porto for a time! It won’t be the last time that you hear about Harry Potter references during your time here. It is clear Rowling had a love of historic places with a lot of room for the imagination.
Bookstores are one of my favorite places to go shopping! As a kid the one item I spent most of my allowance money on was books. If you are like me or have a love of Harry Potter this bookstore is a must-visit. Quite literally, this is probably the most beautiful bookstore I have ever seen. The architecture is incredibly ornate – the woodwork and stained glass remind me so much of a cathedral.
Keep in mind Lello is probably one of the most popular tourist destinations in Porto these days. So try and get here on a weekday morning. You also need to purchase a ticket in advance to get into the bookstore itself. The ticket entrance is not in the bookstore but on the side of the block. FYI you can redeem the value of your ticket if you buy a book. Keep in mind when we visited Livraria Lello it was February, typically low season. But there were so many people! I can only imagine how crowded and long the lines are in the summer. There are a few special edition classics that are created just for the bookstore – they are quite beautiful and would make nice gifts. If you are looking to buy something local they have editions of Fernando Pessoa’s works.
The staircase is undoubtedly one of the most interesting features of this bookstore. Apparently J.K Rowling was inspired to create the moving staircase at Hogwarts from these stairs. You will see along the walls of books busts of various famous literary figures as well. On the second floor there are a few old editions of rare books including an illustrated version of Winnie the Pooh!
I highly recommend you consider doing a food tour. There are multiple companies that offer this service because Porto is very much known to be a foodie town. This is also a wonderful opportunity to try some Northern Portuguese dishes. Here are some classic dishes you need to try!
Now this is the ultimate sandwich you will ever eat in a lifetime! If you are hungry and craving comfort food this is for you. But beware you may regret your decision afterwards because it will cause major food coma! Essentially a Francesinha is a sandwich that includes multiple layers – bread, ham, multiple types of sausage, roast meat, melted cheese, tomato sauce and beer. Often this is served with a side of french fries. Omph!
Although this sandwich looks deceptively simple it is exceptionally flavorful and juicy. Be prepared to have a mess on your hands! The pork is cooked for hours in a special broth and put on a toasty bun with cheese. Order a beer to go along with this gem. A cult favorite is A Casa Guedes, where lines frequently go out the door. As you sit down you may be offered some fried starters on a large tray by one of the servers (similar to croquettes). Try them! The shrimp option is delicious and codfish is classic.
This isn’t actually a Porto specialty but worth trying in Portugal in general. That being said, I tasted an exceptional version of this dish at Intrigo, one of the restaurants here near the waterfront. Açorda is essentially a bread stew and different variations are cooked in the colder months. The prawn version is absolutely delicious and in a country that boasts fresh seafood I highly recommend this one! Intrigo is also known for its artisanal bread, which is abundantly stuffed into this dish. The restaurant also has a beautiful view of the river and you can enjoy a meal al fresco.
This is also another food “item” that is not unique to Porto. Petiscos are essentially Portuguese tapas – think of various types of cheeses (goat, cow, old, young, etc.) and exquisite slices of cold cuts. Yes, Portugal excels in these industries just as much as Spain and Italy! The store owners of Comer e Chorar por Mais are more than happy to offer tastings (wine and petiscos) to visitors. You can learn a great deal about the wide variety of produce that Portugal has to offer! If you want to bring home some delicious things this is also the place to get them. If you prefer to just eat your way through petiscos for a proper sit-down meal there are plenty of restaurants and bars that have popped up throughout Porto where you can enjoy them.
Considering this trip was in celebration of Valentine’s Day and my 30th birthday, I decided to treat ourselves! We stayed in the historic Infante Sagres Hotel at the heart of the city. This illustrious hotel has hosted famous guests including the Dalai Lama, Queen Beatrice of the Netherlands, Bob Dylan, Prince Edward of England and U2. The Infante Sagres was renovated relatively recently so everything about it is immaculate. Apparently the hotel was named after Prince Henry the Navigator, the renowned Portuguese adventurer who began the age of exploration. He was evidently born in Porto and also established a school of navigation!
The common areas are absolutely exquisite with antique, gilded furnishings and a grand staircase that showcases a stunning multi-story stain-glass window (photo below). Every time we walked downstairs we chose to take the stairwell just because it was so beautiful. That being said, the hotel features a vintage elevator that requires you to open a gate and has a plush leather bench to sit on! The room itself was spacious, with a desk, sitting area, and a gorgeous marble bathroom. I loved the toiletries offered as well – from a local brand, Claus Porto.
Absolutely recommend including breakfasts in your package because they were delicious! Not only are typical continental options available (e.g. croissants, pastries, coffee, tea) but hot, Portuguese food items are as well. If nothing is to your liking you can put in a personal order for items like hardboiled eggs, omelettes, pancakes and the like. The newly renovated Vogue Cafe, where the breakfasts are held, is chic with large mirrors, plush, velvet sofas, and framed pictures of fashion models.
Also a tip, if you travel in Portugal during the low season (the fall and winter months) you will benefit from smaller crowds and more affordable rates, the Infante Sagres included!
Finally, beyond the beautiful furnishings and food what clearly distinguishes a hotel from the rest is service! The staff at Infante Sagres received word it was my birthday and after breakfast brought over a generous slice of birthday cake and two glasses of champagne to our room. What a perfect way to feel pampered and toast to another decade!
All in all it was a perfect birthday and Valentine’s Day getaway! As you can see there are tons of things to do in Porto. These are just some of the many things to enjoy. Have you been to this lovely city yet? Where are your favorite haunts? What are your favorite eats? Next time I would love to stay in the Douro valley in the warmer months or autumn when the vineyards are bursting with color and grapes!
Olá 2020! We are back from the Christmas and New Years holidays in New York and Amsterdam. Happy 2020 everyone! May your new year be filled with adventuring and travel planning! Rob and I have decided to make it a point to explore Lisbon and…