Travel, food, literature, and the good life
Background Napoli, the magnificent city of southern Italy lies sprawling in the sun, like a great golden lion napping next to an azure bay. It is easy to feel the complex, layered quality of this city, all of its history built one on top of …
Why Italy Undoubtedly, Italy is one of the places in the world that I find most magical. Not only because of the philosophy of dolce vita that is saturated in everything about the country but the fond memories I have of it. Italy was the …
It’s been a goal of mine to explore the South since I moved back to the U.S.! The more I’ve traveled the world the more I’ve realized the U.S. is almost like a series of countries within a country. Each region let alone state is unique, with various characters, culture, food, and mentality. In particular, Charleston South Carolina has been top of the list for me given its charm, Southern hospitality, and rich history dating back to 1670 and colonial times. A tradition I’ve been cherishing for a while now is taking a long weekend trip somewhere interesting for my birthday. So, that’s what we did again!
We traveled to Charleston in my birthday month of February, which meant the weather was beautiful compared to what we’re used to for the time of the year in Washington D.C. For much of the weekend the weather was sunny, bright, and it already felt like spring – daffodils, tulips, poppies, and flowering trees like magnolia were already in bloom! I can only imagine how sweltering it must be in the summer – so my suggestion would actually be to avoid the summer heat (and humidity) and go either in the spring or the fall. Winter should also be fine as weather year round tends to be mild.
Since Charleston is a small city, with the historic center being very walkable, a long weekend is the perfect amount of time to spend here. Before heading into the the meat of what to do in this quaint city, let’s steep a bit into the history. Part of the charm of visiting Charleston is marveling at the important role the city has played in U.S. history from colonial times to the Revolutionary and Civil Wars! This makes visiting this place feel all the more special.
The history of Charleston dates back all the way to 1670 when over a hundred English colonists, indentured servants, and slaves landed in the harbor. This is when the colony of Carolina came to be and as you can imagine, the city was named after King Charles II (“Charles Town”). Apparently the city is the first U.S.’ first to be built in a grid-like format as opposed to the meandering European streets. Not surprisingly, due to its strategic location by the water, Charleston became an important seaport for trade – goods including skins, indigo, rice, and cotton were the main export goods, which were sent back to England. With bustling trade, the city quickly became known as “Little London.”
Charleston plays an important role during the Civil War when South Carolina became the first state to secede from the Union in 1860. In fact, the Civil War officially began when Confederate troops shot cannons at Fort Sumter, which you can visit to this day! Charleston quickly became a key target for the federal troops to try and overtake. I highly suggest visiting Fort Sumter (for more historical background), which is a short ferry ride away and can be seen in just a few a hours. Just be sure to purchase a ticket in advance! The historic nature of this beautiful city can be felt everywhere and anyone from someone who just appreciates Southern charm to a history buff can appreciate being here!
The best way to begin to get to know a city, I believe, is to meander the city center and get a little lost! good thing Charleston is relatively small so there are a few streets so you’ll get your bearings and will begin to recognize them. The main artery of the place is King’s Street (they also have a Princess Street that runs perpendicular, which is so adorable!) where you can enjoy some shopping. What I love in particular, are the local boutique shops on the street selling anything from locally made honey and mead to leather goods, spices, handmade candles, pajamas and prints in beautiful blue and white nautical themes. Lots of great places to purchase souvenirs that are not kitschy. Some stores I personally really like include Candlefish, Buxton Books, Savannah Bee Company, and Clayton & Crume.
After walking just off of King Street, you’ll come across the Charleston City Market, which has been around for 200 years with parts of it indoors and others outdoors (though covered with a roof). There are a lot of stalls inside selling all sorts of things! I didn’t end up buying anything but was tempted particularly by the spice mixes, pickles, and condiments sold there that can really only be found in the South. The cuisine in this city is notoriously good! So if you’re a gourmand who likes to cook, this is a good place to purchase things for your cucina. You can also find some art work, souvenirs, jewelry, ceramics, which reminded me of street fairs and what is often sold there. Also, another highlight, if you want to pick up something very unique to the area are baskets made of sweetgrass. They can be a beautiful centerpiece and decor for your home if you want to be reminded of your lovely time in Charleston!
This is a great place to start to explore the waterfront area of Charleston, where there are a number of places to see! I recommend leaving this, the Pineapple Fountain, Rainbow Row, East Battery, White Point Gardens, and Legare for the second half of the day either before or after checking out King Street and Charleston City Market. In my itinerary, you can conveniently see the above sites in order for a nice stroll. The waterfront park specifically faces the ocean and is a great spot to hang out and people watch. Right before you walk into the park, there is a gelateria, Tinto y Crema, which I highly recommend. Feel free to get a scoop of something delicious (I got an incredibly convincing mojito flavor) and sit on a bench to soak in the sea!
The famous Pineapple Fountain also sits squarely in the park and is exactly what it sounds like, a fountain in the shape of a pineapple in all its glory. For some historic context, back in the day around the 18th century or so, pineapples were considered a delicacy and only accessible to the wealthy, who grew them in their greenhouses. If you were invited to a distinguished person’s home and were served pineapple it was considered a status symbol both in the U.S. and Europe! Charleston was built with a significant amount of wealth and large mansions remain standing throughout the residential areas – so you can easily imagine many of these families were able to afford to eat pineapples.
This street of houses, which date back to 1740, is probably one of the most iconic views in the city and one of the most photographed. What I love are the colorful, pastel colors of the buildings and that it remains a quiet, residential street. Much of these buildings are seemingly still locally owned and it doesn’t feel touristy (except for a smattering of visitors talking photos). I recommend looking at all the details, the old and unique windows of each home, the way some seem to slant slightly, etc. These homes used to belong to merchants during colonial times and were not colorfully painted. However, in 1931, they were painted in these appealing pastel shades. There are varying stories of why these houses were painted in such colorful colors – one being that it would help drunk sailors returning to their homes identify where they live and another being that the lighter shades keep the homes cooler under the hot sun. Either way, they are stunning and make you wonder what life would be like if you lived in one of these delicious homes!
This neighborhood follows the waterfront and features gorgeous mansions along a boardwalk. These are massive homes and I noticed that several of them are in disrepair but of the ones that are maintained, they are in mint condition. In general, there seemed to be a number of mansions for sale – not sure if this is a remnant of the COVID pandemic or if Charleston is experiencing some brain drain. But if you’re extremely wealthy, this might be a nice city to purchase a large home! To that point, apparently Oprah has a home here!
The mansions by East Battery are all incredibly unique and also colorful making it so easy to play the game of which you like best. Architecturally, one of the things I’ve loved about Charleston mansions are the massive multi-tiered verandas (typically three or more levels), which are perfect for sitting on with a good book and some sweet tea. Apparently, these terraces had an important function of cooling the entire house – a cool breeze could waft through each of the floor levels. If I could design and build my own home, I’d certainly incorporate this feature in my forever home!
One thing that should definitely be on your list is visiting one of the great houses in Charleston! As you walk through East Battery and Legare Street you’ll noticed a whole lot of mansions, which used to be owned by Charleston’s landowners who built their wealth through their plantations. To understand the economic and social history of this city, visiting one of these homes that have been restored is a fantastic idea. Also, I recommend being mindful when selecting which to visit which of these homes highlight the lives and stories of those enslaved. Slavery formed the backbone of the wealth of these landowning families and the prosperous economy of the South so it is very important to make sure these narratives are interwoven in the places we visit.
I absolutely recommend the Aiken-Rhett House in that it as meticulously preserved – yes, not restored but preserved. What is the difference you ask? The house is displayed in exactly the same way it has been all these years, which means no sprucing up to look something different from its authentic self. The audio guide provided was also excellent and easy to follow – definitely do not skip this! Like many other significant landowners, the family who lived here owned rice plantations off the coast of the Carolinas and built their second “town home” in Charleston to entertain society. The tour begins toward the back of the mansion with the slave quarters and highlights the names, lives, and stories of several folks who served the family. What I appreciated is how they took the time and intention to unearth these stories, which is not the case in many other establishments.
I’ve never visited a plantation in my life and this is something I’ve always wanted to do! Such a classic cornerstone of Southern history. There are a number of plantations near Charleston, with Magnolia being one of the closest ones (approximately half an hour away). This plantation is especially known for its extensive and sprawling gardens and you can purchase various different tickets, with the base entry being for the gardens. There is a beautiful main house to visit as well, which requires a separate, timed ticket but I highly recommend it.
Our guide for the house was probably one of the best I’ve ever had on any tour, and was extremely knowledgable, offering interesting tidbits of information, keeping it all interactive, and was also very humorous. Apparently, the Magnolia Plantation mansion was one of the only estates that were not burned down during the Civil War as the owner at the time did not enlist to fight under the Confederate flag. Also, two of the daughters of one of the plantation owners became abolitionists and were shunned in Charleston society! I also recommend adding a ticket to visit the slave quarters as well, which was actually free the time we visited, to get the full experience. Our guide for that tour was also very frank and offered the opportunity for Q&A, which I thought was very important for those of us who know less about the reality of slavery and its important role in the trajectory of US history.
In many ways, my first visit to a plantation felt very humbling. Furthermore, seeing the extravagant and beautiful life that these landowners also enjoyed back in Charleston away from their plantations. To see the two, very different lives of master and slave was stark to say the least. There is so much we don’t read about in our history books growing up in the U.S. and I believe it is so important, especially as adults, to seek out more of these narratives to better understand who we are as a nation.
All in all, Charleston is a fascinating, historic city to visit! The wealth and consequence of this city is palpably felt the moment you walk around. Additionally, there is so much Southern charm here in the gorgeous architecture, the beautiful mansion homes that are still so well maintained, and the food is to write home about. There is something for everyone and if you’re looking to explore the South of the U.S., this is a great place to begin. The U.S. is such a massive country that there is just so much cultural and historic diversity worth exploring! Charleston is also the perfect place to spend checking out on a weekend, with it being on the smaller side but filled to the brim with culture, food, and history. You won’t regret checking this beautiful city out!
I am thrilled to continue my series of book reviews on travel literature! As a former English major and someone who loves to travel in every sense of the word (arm-chair travel anyone?) I have always enjoyed this genre. In these unprecedented times one of …
Background In recent years Lisbon has become an increasingly popular tourist destination! Having lived here for over a year I can certainly affirm it is a special place. To be able to live for an extended period of time in a city means you are …
On our recent trip to Évora we had the pleasure of staying in one of the loveliest and most fascinating hotels ever, Convento do Espinheiro! As you can guess, this hotel is a former convent that was renovated into a beautiful luxury hotel and spa. Till today Convento do Espinheiro has a truly serene and rustic feel. Although you no longer need to be a monk or nun to enjoy the convent it somehow leaves you feeling at peace, and dare I say, spiritually cleansed? As mentioned in my post on Évora, one of the great draws of the Alentejo region is its stark and natural beauty. The hotel is located a short while away from the city and is surrounded by farmland, olive trees and vineyards. The proximity to nature is what really adds to the beauty of the property.
I don’t know about you but my favorite type of hotels are historic ones! Oftentimes staying at such a hotel means it ends up being a destination in itself and intuitively you get a feel for a culture or region. We have had the fortune of staying in historic hotels both in Europe and India and they really do not disappoint! We were delighted to find in Portugal there are similar options called pousadas, which used to be managed by the government. There are also other privately owned heritage hotels, like Convento do Espineiro, which are not technically pousadas but are of the same idea.
The historic nature of this hotel is palpable from the movement you arrive into the driveway. The facade looks very much like a convent and has a gorgeous white-washed look. Especially on a hot August day it is refreshing to look at! At the front desk there is a wooden statue of madonna and child and several bottles of wines, which have been produced for centuries by the monks at the convent. Something I appreciated a great deal is the fact that the hotel offers complimentary tours of the property everyday at 5pm to all of its guests as well as a wine tasting. Note: in COVID times you will need to make a reservation for this as well as for all meals (including breakfast) to ensure safety.
According to our friendly tour guide, the convent was founded in 1400 due to an apparition of the Virgin Mary seen by a humble shepherd boy. Based on the legend, she was seen above a thorn bush, or espinheiro in Portuguese, where the building stands today. As a result, the area became a major pilgrimage site and in 1458 during the reign of King Afonso V, a formal convent was built and occupied by the monks of the Order of St. Jerónimo.
In the 15th and 16th centuries, during the golden era of discovery, Convento do Espinheiro was frequented by the Portuguese nobility, including King Afonso V and King João II, who would stay in the convent to pray for divine protection ahead of conquests in Africa. According to legend, King Manuel I was staying in the convent when he was brought news of the discovery of India by the most famous Portuguese navigator, Vasco da Gama. Members of the Spanish nobility also stayed at the convent including Princess Isabel of Spain, who was traveling from Seville to marry Prince Afonso of Portugal.
As you can imagine, based on the above, there are so many highlights to this hotel! For your viewing pleasure, I will list out below the most interesting aspects of the property.
The convent was expertly renovated and includes both its original building and also a modern wing. Both have lovely rooms with their own specific draws. But we stayed in the modern wing, which overlooks the peaceful gardens. The room is spacious and includes a sitting area from which you can slide open a floor-to-ceiling door, which leads to a private outdoor patio and the garden. The simple fact that the door opens up completely means it almost feels like the garden is an extension of the room. You can enjoy the peaceful sounds of birds and running water while laying in bed. The decor is 1950s minimalist, slick and chic. It almost feels like you are spending the night in a modern art museum (in a good way)! The bathroom is also spacious with both a shower and bathtub (complete with bath salts!).
From our room we were able to amble directly into the carefully manicured gardens of the convent. Might I add they are heavenly and so peaceful! The gardens are a mixture of French and Italian style – immaculately curated, symmetrical and lined with geometrically trimmed bushes and cypress trees. I was also fascinated to learn that the garden is irrigated via an old water system. During our stay my routine included taking walks in the garden around sunset when the light was especially golden and sumptuous – I can understand the great writers Mary Oliver, Henry David Thoreau and Virginia Woolf who always claimed they did their best thinking while walking. In such a beautiful natural environment surely anyone would wax lyrical?
There is also a wonderful outdoor infinity pool where one can lounge and a spacious area for sunbathing connected to it. We decided not to go in the pool as it was a bit crowded but definitely took advantage of the lounging area to read for an afternoon. Nothing like reading a good book with soft, fresh grass under your toes and cicadas chattering in the background!
Now getting into the historic areas of the convent, one of the most incredible spaces is the chapel. Mass is still held here once a month and there is an incredible organ on the left side, which still looks glorious but no longer works. Apparently, there are only one or two specialists in the world that are able to repair this particular model and as a result it costs somewhere around €1 million to do so! What a reminder of how historical restoration is a tricky business, with traditional trades continually dying out. This always makes me a bit sad to witness. Nonetheless, the organ still looks incredibly impressive.
What caught my attention about this chapel is its gorgeous pastel colors and intricate altar decorated with gold leaf. We actually stumbled into the space by accident after having a delicious breakfast our first day and were positively stunned. Apparently in one of the smaller side chapels on the right some paintings by Frei Carlos, a renowned painter and monk who stayed at the convent, are missing, one of which is now located in the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City! Next time I am back home i’ll need to see if I can locate it!
Another one of my favorite rooms in the convent is the rectory. This is where the monks back in the day would have their meals. As you can see, today it has been converted into a sort of lounge area with plush couches, pillows and soft lighting. The room leads down to the two restaurants at the convent, Divinus and Olive. What is charming about this space is the random pulpit on the right hand side. This is where one of the monks would read out scripture every night while everyone ate down below. Might I say I’d much rather be the one eating?
Now a convent would not be complete without a cloister! Convento do Espineiro has a beautiful one where you can admire the architecture. There are tables and seats open here where you can enjoy a cocktail or two after dinner. From the vantage point of the cloister you can admire the multistory building, which houses the more traditional and historic guest rooms. On the top most floor you have the largest suites where the nobility and dignitaries have and continue to stay in. Interestingly the suites are paired with smaller rooms where servants used to be conveniently situated in order to cater to every beck and call. Be sure to take one of the internal staircases up several floors to admire the view from upstairs as well!
As mentioned earlier in my post, the monks at Convento do Espineiro produced a lot of wine in their time. In fact, vineyards still surround the property! The barrels of wine were stored in what is now Divino, the classical Portuguese restaurant. Breakfast is also served here and on a connecting balcony overlooking a courtyard with giant oak trees. The graceful arches indoors create intimate alcoves where you can enjoy meals. We had the fortune of enjoying dinner here to celebrate our first wedding anniversary! The food is absolutely delicious and they use only local produce to prepare the meals. The Alentejo region is renowned for its cuisine, which is simple and rustic but delicious. Similar to Tuscan cuisine, back in the day life was hard and resources scarce in the Alentejo, particularly during the dictatorship of Salazaar. This helped to evolve the regional cuisine into something that is humble but innovative.
Before our appetizers the chef brought over some delicious amuse bouche, octopus salad and some slices of local cheeses, presunto (cured meats) and freshly baked bread with olive oil produced on the property. For our appetizers my husband enjoyed a foie gras with figs grown from the garden and I had a refreshing ceviche with strawberries. For our mains we had an exquisite filet mignon and sea-bass on a bed of risotto. If you have the chance, absolutely book a table here to try Alentejo cuisine at its best, even if you end up staying elsewhere!
Note: the restaurant took exceptional precautions to keep things safe regarding Covid. All servers wore masks and we ordered off of digital menus (only a QR code is provided and you can access it on your phone). Reservations are strictly made to ensure there is minimum occupancy at a given time. We never felt like there were too many people in a space.
The cistern, where the monks used to collect rainwater, is now a wine tasting room! Its cavernous and cool space is perfect for keeping wines of all varieties. Along the walls there are wines from all across Portugal including the Alentejo region. Although both red and white wines are produced under the convent’s own label they are no longer made from the grapes grown on the property itself. Instead, there is a neighboring vineyard that does all of the production and growing nowadays. However, it is still very special to be able to taste wines under the name of Convento do Espineiro! As for the tasting, we were able to try a white, red and rosé. I particularly enjoyed the red for its earthy, almost spicy profile which is similar to what you’d find in a high altitude Spanish or Chilean wine.
If you did not know, Portugal is a large producer of quality wines! The Douro valley in the north, next to Porto, in particular is one of the oldest demarcated wine valleys in the world and a UNESCO heritage site. However, Alentejo is also celebrated for its deep and rich red wines. Because of the region’s hot climate and rich soil the terroir is quite good. It is a shame that overseas Portuguese wines are not as well known as they are just as good as Spanish, French and Italian varieties. Might I also add the price point is also more competitive?!
Overall Rating:
Service – 5/5
Location – 5/5
Room – 5/5
Breakfast – 5/5
Experience – 5/5
Convento do Éspineiro is an experience and as heritage hotels go this is the best of the best. The history and sheer natural beauty of this place leaves you feeling the Alentejo region in your soul. If you are someone who appreciates history and is looking for a place that will both rejuvenate and fascinate you this is it! What I also loved about this hotel is that it is meant for exploring (both inside the historic convent itself and outside in the gardens) and there are multiple places to relax and unwind.
Also, a special note, given the current COVID pandemic I felt completely safe in this property. All of the staff were meticulous and polite when ensuring safety. Social distancing was maintained and everyone was wearing masks both indoors and outdoors. All meals and tours were scheduled at least a day in advance to prepare the staff for proper measures.
If you haven’t already, check out my post on the historic city of Évora as well, which will give you the perfect excuse to stay in this beautiful place!
Embracing local travel in these COVID times, we had the delight of visiting the historic city of Évora! If you enjoy exploring small cities chock-full of history and charm this is the place for you. Also, Alentejo is a region that should absolutely be appreciated …
In these strange times of self-isolation for those of us who love travel and exploring it is exceedingly difficult. I hope you and your families are staying safe and healthy and finding ways to cope in the day to day. Personally I have been savoring …
I am thrilled to share my first travel post since the start of COVID! We decided to go on a road trip to the Algarve region in Portugal for a few days in July. Since it is summertime, it was a no brainer to plan our trip around the region, which is famous for its gorgeous beaches. It is also just over two hours away by car from us in Lisbon!
Portugal has registered zero deaths for the first time this past week, which makes this a particularly opportune time for local travel. However, it is important to keep in mind for countries like the US, that are still battling the virus within state borders, individuals should remain cautious and keep interstate or regional movement to a minimum. My sneaking suspicion is that road tripping will become the most popular choice of travel for the foreseeable future until we get a vaccine. Have you considered which areas nearby you have been wanting to explore but have been keeping in the back-burner?
Here are some top reasons why we decided to travel to the Algarve for a quick getaway!
– Stunning Beaches: Easily one of the most gorgeous beaches in Europe! The sand is golden, the water a clear green-blue and beaches vary widely from large to small, intimate coves.
– Accessibility: It’s an easy drive from Lisbon and perfect for road tripping! We decided to rent the most adorable Fiat to get there, which is safer than taking public transport or a flight. Many car rentals are also sanitizing each of their cars, including Hertz, which is where we went.
– Accommodation: There are many Airbnb listings for the region due to it being a very popular summer destination.
One of the biggest decisions you need to make when booking a holiday in the Algarve is determining which seaside town to stay in. We decided on Lagos (pronounced La-goosh) for several reasons. Firstly, it is close to some very famous beaches, which are known for its dramatic, golden cliffs and blue-green water. Additionally, the town itself is historic and used to be the capital of the Algarve. It is so old that remnants of an old city wall still exist, in fact there are two walls (one built by the Moors and a second by the Portuguese)! In terms of just how historic Lagos is, it is more than 2000 years old and was originally a settlement of the Carthaginians, which was then colonized by the Romans, Visagoths and Byzantines.
During Portugal’s golden era of navigation, the famous ships that sailed all over the world under the leadership of Henry the Navigator were built in Lagos. From here expeditions to India, Africa and the Cape of Good Hope commenced. Back in the day, the harbor was laden with spices, goods and even slaves. In fact, Europe’s first slave market was opened here in 1444. Eventually, Lisbon took on the helm of trade and commerce and Lagos’ central role in trade began to decrease. That being said, today Lagos remains a destination highlight in the Algarve and is one of the most highly recommended places to stay.
It turns out we made a great decision to stay here! Lagos is a small town and is very charming. The homes within the boundaries of the old city walls are old, one-storied and both whitewashed and painted in colorful pastels. I highly recommend you find an airbnb that is located either in or very close to the old city as the views are stunning (check out the view from our balcony above – in the morning and during sunset). The further you move away from the center the more sprawling and urban it all feels.
Lagos itself is quite a charming little town! If you walk to the center you will find plenty of restaurants and shops that were open. Despite covid there were several tourists milling about and eating out. We did not spend much time exploring these stores for safety reasons but it is still lovely to walk the narrow cobblestoned streets, enjoy the architecture and walk to the harbor. Especially if you walk away from the main pedestrian streets into the residential areas you can begin to enjoy the charming streets and colorful homes.
Though usually, in all of my posts I have some mention of food and the various delicacies to eat in a given city or town this time around we cooked all of our meals at home! That being said, we did order take out on our last evening to try some piri piri chicken. This dish is a specialty of the Algarve, where whole chickens are barbecued on a hot grill and topped with a spicy chili sauce! You can find this in some parts of Lisbon as well. But it originates from the Algarve and on the coast they also grill a smaller variety of chicken, which makes it a bit different. If you want to try this, I recommend taking out from Churrasqueira Praça d’Armas, which is located smack in the middle of town.
After walking through a bit of the town I highly suggest you walk down the central promenade that leads to the main harbor and eventually to Batata Beach. The promenade is paved alongside the central harbor is absolutely beautiful! Enjoy a leisurely stroll and balmy summer breezes! As you walk past the harbor you will come across Batata Beach, which is the beach directly in front of Lagos. It is a pretty beach but I recommend spending your full days at other nearby beaches, which are a bit more beautiful.
What I love about beach vacations is that they provide the perfect excuse to do absolutely nothing! We return to a simpler way of life. Our modern lives are fast paced demanding us to be productive and “on” at all times. But the sun, sand and sea create a new rhythm that is a breath of fresh air. What we did for five days straight was have a light breakfast, pack lunch and drive to the beach (a new one each day). We would then lay out our towels, our cute green umbrella and read, nap, eat or frolic in the waves on repeat.
So without further or do, here are my favorite beaches, each unique and absolutely worth spending an entire day on! Best of all, all of these are just a short distance away from Lagos.
If you are looking to lounge on a large beach with expansive views that seem to go on for miles on miles, this is the one for you! In fact, to be precise the beach is 4km long with multiple entry points from the road. Also, if you do not have your own umbrella this beach conveniently has many loungers and umbrellas for rent (approximately €15). There are also a number of restaurants and cafes dotting the coastline should you want a bite to eat. We however, brought along some ham and cheese toasties, grapes and chips (for the entire week), which was perfectly satisfying. Considering COVID, a large and open beach like Meia Praia is ideal. There is enough room for everyone to enjoy and lie on the sand. Also considering the Algarve clearly had less people than usual (most of the beachgoers were Portuguese throughout our trip) this beach felt so spacious!
We stumbled across this beautiful vista and small beach on our first day on our walk from Batata Beach. So you should note that it is walkable from Lagos Harbor and waterfront! What makes Ponte de Piedade special is its dramatic coastline views where you can admire rock formations, arches and grottoes. You can choose to take a boat tour that will take you to these beautiful rock formations for stunning views if you wish. However, along a small footpath path you can walk to a lovely viewpoint and continue along further down the coastline. Do not miss this gorgeous walk! For some of the other beaches you will also notice that there are footpaths as well. I recommend you enjoy the beach first and then later in the afternoon do a little hike because the views are worth it!
This beach is one of the most iconic in the Algarve and according to Michelin guide, it falls in the top 10 beaches in Europe! There are golden cliffs that frame the entire beach and water that is so translucent that you can see to the bottom. This is also a wonderful place to go snorkeling as you may see starfish, sea urchins, shrimp and even seahorses! There is also a cliff walk that leads to some impressive and dramatic vistas. You can view some famous rock formations that look like a giant “M.”
The beach itself is a nice size, not too big and not too small. Come here early to stake out a prime spot. You will definitely want to bring your own umbrella and towels and can purchase these inexpensively by the stairs leading down to the beach. Note that from Lagos Praia da Marinha is further away at approximately 30 minutes by car. But it is worth it and was probably one of my most favorite beaches we visited! Also, potentially due to COVID security personnel blocked off the road leading directly to the beach. You will have to park outside and walk for approximately 10-15 minutes to the beach.
This beautiful beach is located between Lagos and Ponte de Piedade and is a great size given it is not too bit or too small! The water similar to Ponte de Piedade and Praia do Camilo is calm and clear. At low tide, when the water begins to recede, there is another more secluded area of the beach that can be accessed (left side). I recommend setting up on this side as it is less crowded.
Similar to Praia de Marinha the beach is surrounded by golden cliffs. Though, this beach is a bit bigger so it feels more spacious. If you prefer to rent an umbrella and chairs there is a section in the middle where you can do so! At low tide there are small arches that appear in some of the rock formations. This is a great place to go snorkeling and there are lots of beautiful shells here! A little backstory of this beach for those of you who love history. The beach is named after a nun who lived in a nearby convent during World War I. Soldiers unfortunately invaded and killed all of the nuns in except for one named Dona Ana. She managed to escape to the beach through one of the small passages in the cliffs that can be found during low tide.
This beach may very well have been my favorite! It is the smallest of the beaches we visited and secluded. However, this also meant it was more crowded! Note that given its small size during high tide the amount of space really decreases. As a result I recommend you come in the morning (as early as possible) and leave when it gets too crowded. The reason why this was my favorite beach is because the water is so clear and calm (a gorgeous green color) you can easily see the bottom and the sand is soft (no weird seaweed, rocks or stones).
We ended up leaving in the afternoon because the beach was getting progressively crowded (the first photo below is when we left)! Views from the iconic stairs are absolutely stunning. for those who are older and have trouble with mobility this may be a bit of a challenge. Another thing to note is that on the day we visited it was very windy and we found it hard to pitch up an umbrella. In general, if it is windy think twice about opening an umbrella as it can be a hazard.
After leaving Praia Camilo we decided to check out neighboring Praia Porto do Mos! This is my favorite large beach and given the huge expanse of sand it’s perfect for keeping socially distant! The water is gorgeously transparent and calm, though cold, and the sand is very soft. No weird seaweed, pebbles or rocks in the water as well. There are areas of the beach where shallow pools of water collect and are perfect for little kids to play in.
We sat on the Western side of the beach, which was less crowded but it was incredibly windy! Moving to the East it was much calmer and there were definitely areas where there were less people. I could see myself coming to this beach frequently if we lived in the Algarve! A great contrast to the more small, intimate beaches and coves.
All in all, the Algarve is a fantastic place to visit via car! Especially given the time of year, a beach vacation is a great way to get some fresh air and explore! If you find yourself in Portugal, absolutely do not skip out on exploring the Algarve. These beaches are incredibly beautiful, unique and another wonderful side to the country. The seaside towns including Lagos are also charming, historic and invite you into a more relaxed pace in life.
If you’re itching to explore other parts of Portugal check out my posts on Porto, Évora, Sintra and Cascais! Stay safe my friends and bon voyage!
What a few months it has been for everybody! My hopes are that you are staying safe indoors and are taking good care of not only your health but spirits as well. It is a trying time for those of us who love to explore …